Where can you find quiet streets & emerald green rice paddies in South Bali? Umalas – a hidden gem that borders the bustle of both Seminyak and Canggu...
It’s no secret that South Bali is the spot for beautiful beaches, hopping beach clubs and five-star resorts. It’s where your biggest problem is shortlisting places to eat and sights to see. But you might be wondering, where can you have the best of both worlds: peace and quiet, yet still close to all the must-visit hotspots? That’s where Umalas steps in!
So, where is Umalas?
Location, location, location! Umalas is the quieter neighbourhood that’s perfectly nestled between the bustle of both Seminyak and Canggu. We love making Umalas our home base, where we can chill in a quiet cafe overlooking a small patch of rice fields in the morning, shop in Seminyak in the afternoon, and have dinner and cocktails in Canggu well into the night.
What is Umalas best known for?
Umalas is most popular with families and long-term expats, all thanks to its all-around warm, residential vibes. Plus, it’s home to the few remaining rice fields in the south. But don’t be fooled by its size. Despite its quaintness, Umalas is packed full of places to stay, eat and play – think cute cafes, award-winning restaurants, hip gyms and ultra-stylish abodes.
So, here’s all you need to know about the lovely Umalas neighbourhood: our favourite places to eat and stay, and why it should make it on your Bali itinerary…
WHERE TO EAT IN UMALAS – THE BEST CAFES & RESTAURANTS
1. Uma Garden
Nestled amongst the rice paddies and surrounded by greenery is Uma Garden – a fire-based restaurant with the humble philosophy of bringing people together over real food and good vibes. Just minutes from both Canggu and Seminyak, Uma Garden is a sanctuary away from the bustle, and with its stylishly rustic ambiance and prime address on one of Umalas’ most trendy streets, it’s fast become the go-to neighbourhood hangout. Start your evening with a pre-dinner aperitivo in the stylish lounge as you watch the open kitchen come to life. Then, make your way to the heart of the restaurant where communal tables set the scene for mixing and mingling over honest recipes and wood-fired flavours. Try the 24-hour slow-cooked pork belly, or the Wagyu beef and juicy prawns, ember-grilled to perfection.
Uma Garden, Jl Umalas 1 No. 8, p. +62 821 4736 9323; Open daily from 1pm.
2. Bonito Fish Bar
Fresh-from-the-net sustainably caught seafood is what’s on the menu at Bonito Fish Bar – the latest venture from Chef Maurizio Bombini and the sister to the acclaimed Seminyak restaurant, Mauri. In comparison to its fine dining predecessor, Bonito is a casual seafood restaurant, celebrating the flavours of the sea with its cooked and raw fish creations. And you can even choose your catch from the chilled display counter, or order the imaginative plates from the menu for a taste of Chef Maurizio’s culinary flair. From oysters and ceviche, to charcoal-grilled prawns and roasted octopus, Bonito Fish Bar gets three thumbs up from us.
Bonito Fish Bar, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 88, p. +62 811 3811 888, e. [email protected]; Open daily 12pm – 11pm.
3. Kembali Bumbak
Flowery decor, cute furniture and family friendly vibes – we can’t get enough of Kembali Bumbak. This neighbourhood fave is where you can pop by for a breakfast of waffles, pancakes and smoothie bowls, or a juicy breakfast burger. For lunch, you can’t go wrong with the chunky sandwiches, pastas and salads. There are plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, as well as a fun kids menu. There’s truly something for everyone here!
Kembali Bumbak, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 41 – 45, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 3940 8400; Open daily 8am – 5pm.
4. Nook
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle, Nook is where you can escape the traffic for calming, panoramic views of lush rice paddies alongside a great selection of Indonesian and Asian-fusion dishes. We say, go for the traditional Nasi Campur where you can pick and choose between white or red rice, topped with different meats, seafood, veggies and sambal. Wash it all down with a cold coconut, and finish off with a piping hot pisang goreng. And just like its name, you’ll find plenty of cosy nooks to cuddle up in…
Nook, Jl Umalas 1 Gang Nook, Kerobokan; Open daily 8am – 11pm.
5. Monsieur Spoon
If you thought Bali life couldn’t get any sweeter, settle in for brunch or lunch at Monsieur Spoon – the island’s favourite artisanal French bakery-cum-cafe that does food a la Francaise oh-so well. One of many locations on the island (also in Canggu, Seminyak and Ubud), you’ll want to try its oh-so creamy eclairs, shatteringly crisp croissants, velvety salted caramels and freshly baked breads that sit under buttery smashed avocado, gooey eggs or juicy bacon. And FYI, the coffee is great here too.
Monsieur Spoon, Jl Umalas II No. 43, p. +62 877 6116 0080; Open daily 7am – 3pm.
6. Bistro Anwa
Sitting on the ground floor of the three-storey Anwa Bali, Bistro Anwa is a family-friendly Western-style bistro slinging organic, nutritious and fresh ingredients throughout the day. Start your day with the creamy Eggs Benny, a fresh smoothie, or the sautéed mushrooms with garlic, poached eggs and Persian feta, plus a slice of sourdough to mop up all that goodness. Then for lunch, it’s all about hearty comfort food, like homemade pizzas, juicy burgers and zesty plates to share. At sunset, head up to the rooftop bar where more bites and cocktails await.
Bistro Anwa, Jl Umalas Tunon No. 23A, p. +62 821 4554 2105; Open daily from 7am.
7. Satoshi
Gastronomy meets art at Satoshi – a boundary-pushing restaurant in Umalas that’s redefining Itameshi cuisine, AKA Italian and Japanese fusion. Inside, the sleek and stylish interiors nod to Japanese-minimalism, framed by a temperature-controlled wine cellar, a library of hand-collected vinyl, and a lustrous open kitchen. The menu flows through raw and curated appetisers, like tuna tartare loaded on crispy nori, and ultra-fine takoyaki with sturgeon caviar. Move on to the gyoza-style ravioli, or the Japanese curry risotto with tender Wagyu. Pair it all with superb Japanese-inspired cocktails. Trust us when we say, you’ll want to save space for the Godzilla matcha cheesecake, best enjoyed on the low-slung sofas at the Music Library, fronted by four tonnes of local Javanese limestone…
Satoshi, Jl Bumbak No. 55, Kerobokan, p. +628113811988; Open daily from 5pm.
8. WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar
From breakfast to brunch and dinner too, WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar is a cosy all-day dining space in Umalas that specialises in Asian and Mediterranean signatures. For late risers, the Melbourne-style brunch menu runs until 3pm, with brekkie favourites like waffles, avocado toast and eggs Benedict. Then, as the day moves into dinner, expect flavours from Indonesia and across Asia, before finishing off with the almost-too-pretty-to-eat desserts, like Matcha Panna Cotta. Wash it all down with a Negroni that’s been given a Rosella twist, or the signature Smoky Topaz with whisky, orange, lemon juice, coffee liqueur and a crème brulée syrup.
WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar, Jl Umalas I No. 1, Kerobokan, p. +62 813 7722 1500; Open daily from 9.30am.
9. 7am Bakers Club
If, like us, you’re a sucker for warm, buttery pastries and a great cup of coffee, 7am Bakers Club is a must. This cosy little bakery and cafe is a patisserie paradise, with fresh breads and pastries coming out of the oven every morning. Think flaky croissants, gooey cinnamon rolls and sourdough bread so good we can’t help but take a loaf home. But the menu doesn’t stop at pastries – there’s also hearty breakfast eggs and pancakes, artisanal sandwiches, and desserts that are almost too pretty to eat. Pair it all with a perfectly brewed coffee for the ultimate breakfast in Umalas.
7am Bakers Club, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 88, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 385 0303; Open daily from 7am.
10. Bucu
Charming and delicious, Bucu is the kind of cafe that makes us want to linger a little longer. This quaint spot is all about feel-good eats and cosy vibes, with a menu that caters to every craving. There’s signature smoothie bowls, piled high with tropical fruits and crunchy toppings, or dig into a hearty plate of eggs and avo on toast. Lunch calls for fresh salads, or their must-try Indonesian favourites like Nasi Campur, all made with locally sourced ingredients.
Bucu, Jl Umalas II No. 67, Kerobokan, p. +62 878 5136 6867; Open Tue – Sun 7.30am – 8.30pm.
WHERE TO STAY IN UMALAS – THE BEST HOTELS & VILLAS
1. Own Villa
Own Villa in Umalas is an eco-traveller’s dream escape. This luxury eco-lodge was conceived to embrace nature, discover traditions, travel consciously, and experience the spirit of Bali. It’s built using recycled materials, with striking thatched roofs inspired by the Batak houses of North Sumatra. Six one-bedroom villas are strategically placed to mimic an Indonesian village, AKA a “desa”, with the pristine pool taking centre stage. Hidden amongst greenery, every detail mirrors the villa’s natural environment, and all design elements are handmade. We love the in-villa spa treatments, and the private dining restaurant, Own Table, which blends Indonesian flavours and Italian home cooking.
Own Villa, Jl Umalas Tunon Gg. X No. 1A, p. +62 361 473 5790 / +62 897 0357 989, e. [email protected]
2. El Barrio Boutique Hotel & Bar
A retro tropical dreamscape, El Barrio oozes style, vibrancy and character. This boutique hotel is awash in colourful vibes and quirky decor, with retro-chic rooms and a two-bedroom villa that feels more like a Mexican hacienda than a Bali hotel. We love how bold yet vintage the rooms are, alongside lush greenery, dreamy balconies and spaces designed for laid-back Bali living. You’ll also find loungey communal areas, a vibrant pool area and the most gorgeous nooks for your Instagram feed.
El Barrio Boutique Hotel & Bar, Kerobokan, Umalas, p. +62 821 4790 9060
3. The Concrete Retreat
Minimalist designs meet tropical luxury at The Concrete Retreat. This two-bedroom villa is stylish and private, with sleek interiors showcasing the signature polished concrete walls. The floor-to-ceiling windows and modern comforts make this villa feel like home. Lounge by your private pool surrounded by lush greenery, whip up a feast in the fully equipped kitchen, or just sink into the plush sofas with a good book. The bedrooms are breezy, with big comfy beds and en-suites that feel like your own mini spa. One thing’s for sure – you’ll never want to leave.
The Concrete Retreat, Kerobokan, Umalas, p. +62 821 4790 9060
4. Bloomfield Bali
Overlooking the Umalas rice fields, Bloomfield Bali is a boutique hotel and spa that gives the gift of tranquillity. Formerly a private residence, it’s designed with the environment in mind with beautiful handcrafted furnishings and bamboo structures. You can choose from the various private rooms, but we say go all-out with the three-bedroom Villa Sawah with its own infinity pool that overlooks the sawah, AKA rice fields. Spend the whole day at the pool, join the yoga and meditation classes in the bamboo studio, or bliss out with a spa treatment at the open air bungalow.
Bloomfield Bali, Jl Bumbak No. 25, Gg. Pulau No. 6, p. +62 857 3888 3093, e. [email protected]
5. Ukiyo Villa
Ukiyo Villas combines everything we love about Bali living: modern luxury and tropical zen. This stunning hideaway is a sleek, minimalist two-bedroom villa that feels more like your own private sanctuary than simply a place to stay. The villa has a spacious open-plan living area and a private pool that begs for a lazy afternoon float. The bedrooms? Pure bliss. Think cosy beds, natural tones and sleek en-suites. Ukiyo Villas’ stylish vibes and thoughtful touches make this one a must-book.
Ukiyo Villa, Gg. Nakula, Kerobokan, p. +62 821 4790 9060
6. La Payesa
A Spanish-inspired collection of villas, La Payesa is a fully gated complex of four villas and a shared space. The villas range from two to four bedrooms, each with their own private pool, sun deck, spacious garden and a wonderful team of staff. The boho chic, two-bedroom Es Palmador is perfect for small families, while the larger four-bedroom Las Salinas sleeps eight. The open-plan living space is decked out with entertainment and a fully equipped kitchen for those cosy nights in. Or, rent out the whole complex (Las Salinas and Es Palmador, plus the three-bedroom Es Cavallet and Illetas) for up to 24 guests.
La Payesa, Jl Umalas II No. 108, Umalas
7. Monolocale Resort
Home to both modern suites and chic private villas, Monolocale Resort is an eclectic stay just minutes from Seminyak’s golden sands. Whichever room you choose, each one is decked out with amenities galore, from Netflix and Spotify, to bathroom essentials from Sensatia Botanicals. We love the suites for a bright and breezy staycay, while the one-bedroom villas are perfect for couples and small families who want to settle in for longer. Spend your days by your private pool or at the shared main pool, then hit up the resort’s Sanctuary Restaurant to fuel up for a weekend of adventures.
Monolocale Resort, Jl Umalas 1 No. 88A, Kerobokan, p. +62 823 4039 4223, e. [email protected]
8. Pandawa All Suite Hotel
Perfect for solo travellers and small families, Pandawa All Suite Hotel offers a number of comfy suites for you to call home. Each suite is a two-storey apartment with a fully equipped kitchen and dining area, plus a living space with a large flat-screen TV, a private bathroom with a bathtub, as well as a sun-soaked balcony. Choose from garden or pool views, or upgrade to an executive suite for more space.
Pandawa All Suite Hotel, Jl Umalas Klecung No. 8X, Umalas 2, Kerobokan, p. +62 361 8499 228 / +62 821 4639 4088, e. [email protected]
9. The Apartments Umalas
Clean, comfy and stylish, The Apartments Umalas offer something for everyone. The guest rooms are cute and cosy, while the two-bedroom apartments are perfect for small families. Whichever you choose, you’ll have access to the three shared pools and the on-site restaurant. And for those travelling in larger groups, choose the two- to four-bedroom villas that each sleep up to eight people. The villas come complete with a kitchen, living area, a private swimming pool and a tranquil garden too.
The Apartments Umalas, Jl Umalas Tunon Gang 5J, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 389 9455
THINGS TO DO IN UMALAS
1. Get lost on a scooter
If you’re properly licensed, one of the best ways to explore Umalas’ quaint streets is on a scooter. You’ll discover urban laneways with cool cafes, to tiny paths that cut through the rice fields. It’s something that you don’t often find in Bali’s southern neighbourhoods, so it’s definitely worth ticking off your bucket list. And if you’re not licensed to ride yourself, hire a GoJek instead!
2. Raise your heart rate at a top gym
For the sporty bunch, you’ll be happy to know that Umalas is home to wellness destinations galore. The choice is yours, from fitness classes at the boutique 15 FIT gym, to tennis matches at Liga Tennis with five tennis courts, a squash court, plus basketball and padel too. Those who like to go fast on wheels, join the cool kids at Amplitude Skatepark – you can even sign up for professional coaching. Or, if you’d like to work on flexibility and strength, Umalas Pilates Studio hosts group classes and private sessions with top-notch Pilates Reformers.
3. Heal from the inside with Maja Healing
Soak ib the tranquil and serene nature of the neighbourhood and escape to one of Bali’s best holistic wellness centres, Maja Healing. The doors are always open wide open here, where you’ll be welcomed by expert healers and therapists, who will happily tailor your own path to healing.
4. Treat yourself to head-to-toe pampering
A spa day is always a good idea in Bali – and Umalas is no exception. And make no mistake, around here we’ve got some of the most stylish spas on the island. In fact, we pop by Spa Anwa for a top-notch mani pedi after brunch at Bistro Anwa in the same building. Or we detangle our sea-salty tresses at the chic Iissii Hair Salon. And whenever we feel super indulgent? We go for a facial and a rejuvenating full body massage at Aliya Salon & Spa. Can’t go wrong with any of them!
5. Shop up a storm in neighbouring Seminyak
Being in such close proximity to Seminyak, staying in Umalas is a blessing for fashionistas. Just a few minutes drive from the main street, you’ll find yourself in the heart of Petitenget, home to hundreds of island boutiques, luxury brands and jewellery stores too. To guide you in the right direction, here’s a list of where to shop in Seminyak.
6. Mingle with the cool kids in Canggu
Not only is Umalas close to Seminyak, you’re also just a short drive away from the hip and happening ‘hood of Canggu. A beach day in Canggu is a must, whether it’s for a long walk on the black sands, or to hit the famous waves. Along the beach, you’ll find Canggu’s coolest beach clubs where sunset cocktails await, and come nightfall, Canggu is home to some of the best restaurants and the most buzzing night clubs and late night bars on the island.
Love this guide to Umalas? Check out this guide to Seminyak too!
