Where can you find quiet streets & emerald green rice paddies in South Bali? Umalas – a hidden gem that borders the bustle of both Seminyak and Canggu...
It’s no secret that South Bali is the spot for beautiful beaches, hopping beach clubs and five-star resorts. It’s where your biggest problem is shortlisting places to eat and sights to see. But you might be wondering, where can you have the best of both worlds: peace and quiet, yet still close to all the must-visit hotspots? That’s where Umalas steps in!
So, where is Umalas?
Location, location, location! Umalas is hidden gem that’s perfectly nestled between the bustle of both Seminyak and Canggu. We love making Umalas our home base, where we can chill in the morning by the rice fields, shop in Seminyak in the afternoon, and have dinner and cocktails in Canggu well into the night.
What is Umalas best known for?
Umalas is often visited by families and expats alike, because of its all-around warm, residential vibes. You’ll find plenty of longer term travellers to mingle with in this up-and-coming neighbourhood – plus, it’s home to the few remaining lush green rice fields in the south.
But don’t be fooled by its size. Despite its quaintness, Umalas is packed full of places to stay, eat and play – think cute cafes, award-winning restaurants, hip gyms and ultra-stylish abodes. Here’s all you need to know about the lovely Umalas ‘hood: our favourite places and things to do, and why it should make it on your Bali itinerary…
WHERE TO EAT IN UMALAS – THE BEST CAFES & RESTAURANTS
1. Uma Garden
Nestled amongst Umalas’ rice paddies and surrounded by greenery is Uma Garden – a fire-based restaurant with the humble philosophy of bringing people together over real food and good vibes. Just minutes from both Canggu and Seminyak, Uma Garden is a sanctuary away from the bustle, and with its stylishly rustic ambiance and prime address on one of Umalas’ most trendy streets, it’s fast become the go-to neighbourhood hangout for seasoned foodies. Start your evening with a pre-dinner aperitivo in the stylish lounge as you watch the open kitchen come to life. Then, make your way to the heart of the restaurant where communal tables set the scene for mixing and mingling over honest recipes and wood-fired flavours. Try the 24-hour slow-cooked pork belly, or the Wagyu beef and juicy prawns, ember-grilled to perfection.
Uma Garden, Jl Umalas 1 No. 8, p. +62 821 4736 9323; Open daily from 1pm.
2. Bonito Fish Bar
Fresh-from-the-net sustainably caught seafood is what’s on the menu at Bonito Fish Bar – the latest venture from Chef Maurizio Bombini and the sister to the acclaimed Seminyak restaurant, Mauri. In comparison to its fine dining predecessor, Bonito is a casual seafood restaurant, celebrating the flavours of the sea with its cooked and raw fish creations. And you can even choose your catch from the chilled display counter, or order the imaginative plates from the menu for a taste of Chef Maurizio’s culinary flair. From oysters and ceviche, to charcoal-grilled prawns and roasted octopus, Bonito Fish Bar gets three thumbs up from us.
Bonito Fish Bar, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 88, p. +62 811 3811 888, e. [email protected]; Open daily 12pm – 11pm.
3. Kembali Bumbak
Flowery decor, cute furniture and family friendly vibes – we can’t get enough of Kembali Bumbak. This neighbourhood fave is where you can pop by for a breakfast of waffles, pancakes and smoothie bowls, or a juicy breakfast burger. For lunch, you can’t go wrong with the chunky sandwiches, pastas and salads. There are plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, as well as a fun kids menu. There’s truly something for everyone here!
Kembali Bumbak, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 41 – 45, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 3940 8400; Open daily 8am – 5pm.
4. Nook
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle, Nook is where you can escape the traffic for calming, panoramic views of lush rice paddies alongside a great selection of Indonesian and Asian-fusion dishes. We say, go for the traditional Nasi Campur where you can pick and choose between white or red rice, topped with different meats, seafood, veggies and sambal. Wash it all down with a chilled coconut, and finish off with a piping hot pisang goreng. And just like its name, you’ll find plenty of cosy nooks to cuddle up in…
Nook, Jl Umalas 1 Gang Nook, Kerobokan; Open daily 8am – 11pm.
5. Monsieur Spoon
If you thought Bali life couldn’t get any sweeter, settle in for brunch or lunch at Monsieur Spoon – the island’s favourite artisanal French bakery-cum-cafe that does food a la Francaise oh-so well. One of many locations on the island (also in Canggu, Seminyak and Ubud), you’ll want to try its oh-so creamy eclairs, shatteringly crisp croissants, velvety salted caramels and freshly baked breads that sit under buttery smashed avocado, gooey eggs or juicy bacon – and FYI, the coffee is great here too.
Monsieur Spoon, Jl Umalas II No. 43, p. +62 877 6116 0080; Open daily 7am – 3pm.
6. Bistro Anwa
Located within the three-storey Anwa Bali, Bistro Anwa is a family-friendly Western-style bistro slinging organic, nutritious and fresh ingredients throughout the day. Start your day right with the creamy Eggs Benny, a fresh smoothie, or the sautéed mushrooms with garlic, poached eggs and Persian feta, plus a slice of sourdough to mop up all that goodness. Then for lunch, it’s all about hearty comfort food, like homemade pizzas, juicy burgers and zesty plates to share.
Bistro Anwa, Jl Umalas Tunon No. 23A, p. +62 821 4554 2105; Open daily from 7am.
7. Satoshi
Gastronomy meets art at Satoshi – a boundary-pushing restaurant in Umalas that’s redefining Itameshi cuisine, AKA a fusion of Italian and Japanese flavours. Inside, the sleek and stylish interiors nod to Japanese-minimalism, framed by a temperature-controlled wine cellar, a towering library of hand-collected vinyl, and a lustrous open kitchen, helmed by the revered Chef Igor Grishechkin. Start with a selection of raw and curated appetisers, like the miso hummus and cauliflower carpaccio, the tuna tartare loaded onto crispy nori, and the ultra-fine takoyaki with sturgeon caviar. Move on to the gyoza-style ravioli, or the Japanese curry risotto with tender Wagyu, and pair it all with superb Japanese-inspired cocktails. Trust us when we say, you’ll want to save space for the Godzilla matcha cheesecake, best enjoyed on the low-slung sofas at the Music Library, fronted by four tonnes of local Javanese limestone…
Satoshi, Jl Bumbak No. 55, Kerobokan, p. +628113811988; Open daily from 5pm.
8. WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar
From breakfast to brunch and dinner too, WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar is a cosy all-day dining space in Umalas that specialises in signature dishes from Asia to the Mediterranean and beyond. For late risers, the casual Melbourne-style brunch runs until 3pm, with a selection of brunch favourites like waffles, avocado toast and eggs Benedict. Then, as the day moves into dinner, expect flavours from Indonesia and across Asia, before finishing off with the almost-too-pretty-to-eat desserts, like the Matcha Panna Cotta served with macerated strawberries, poached pear, carrot gel, hazelnut, and matcha ice cream. Wash it all down with a Negroni that’s been given a Rosella twist, or the signature Smoky Topaz with whisky, orange, lemon juice, coffee liqueur and a crème brulée syrup.
WhiteStone Restaurant & Bar, Jl Umalas I No. 1, Kerobokan, p. +62 813 7722 1500; Open daily from 9.30am.
9. 7am Bakers Club
If, like us, you’re a sucker for warm, buttery pastries and a great cup of coffee, 7am Bakers Club is calling your name! This cosy little bakery and cafe is a baked good-lover’s paradise, with fresh breads and pastries coming out of the oven every morning. Think flaky croissants, gooey cinnamon rolls and sourdough bread so good we can’t help but take a loaf home. But the menu doesn’t stop at pastries – there’s also hearty breakfast eggs and pancakes, artisanal sandwiches, and desserts that are almost too pretty to eat. Pair it all with a perfectly brewed coffee or a refreshing iced tea, and we’ve got ourselves the ultimate breakfast in Umalas!
7am Bakers Club, Jl Bumbak Dauh No. 88, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 385 0303; Open daily from 7am.
10. Bucu
Packed full of Umalas charm, Bucu is the kind of cafe that makes us want to linger a little longer. This quaint spot is all about feel-good eats and cosy vibes, with a menu that caters to every craving. We start our day with one of their signature smoothie bowls, piled high with tropical fruits and crunchy toppings, or dig into a hearty plate of eggs and avo toast. Lunch calls for fresh salads, or their must-try Indonesian favourites like Nasi Campur, all made with locally sourced ingredients that taste as good as they look. And don’t even get us started on the coffee – smooth, strong and perfect for sipping while you soak up the laid-back Bali energy.
Bucu, Jl Umalas II No. 67, Kerobokan, p. +62 878 5136 6867; Open Tue – Sun 7.30am – 8.30pm.
WHERE TO STAY IN UMALAS – THE BEST HOTELS & VILLAS
1. Own Villa
Sitting on the outskirts of Seminyak at the gateway to Canggu, Own Villa in Umalas is an eco-traveller’s dream escape. This luxury eco-lodge was conceived to embrace nature, discover traditions, travel consciously, and experience the spirit of Bali. It’s built using recycled materials, with those striking thatched roofs inspired by the Batak houses of North Sumatra. Six one-bedroom villas are strategically placed to mimic an Indonesian village, AKA a “desa”, with the pristine pool taking centre stage. Hidden amongst greenery, every detail mirrors the villa’s natural environment, and all design elements are handmade. We love the in-villa spa treatments, and the private dining restaurant, Own Table, which blend Indonesian flavours and Italian home cooking.
Own Villa, Jl Umalas Tunon Gg. X No. 1A, p. +62 361 473 5790 / +62 897 0357 989, e. [email protected]
2. Bloomfield Bali
Overlooking the Umalas rice fields, Bloomfield Bali is a boutique hotel and spa that gives the gift of tranquillity. Formerly a private residence, it’s designed with the environment in mind with beautiful handcrafted furnishings and bamboo structures at every turn. You can choose from the various private rooms, but we say go all-out with the three-bedroom Villa Sawah with its own infinity pool that overlooks the sawah, AKA rice fields. Spend the whole day at the pool, join the yoga and meditation classes in the bamboo studio, or bliss out with a spa treatment at the open air bungalow…
Bloomfield Bali, Jl Bumbak No. 25, Gg. Pulau No. 6, p. +62 857 3888 3093, e. [email protected]
3. La Payesa
A Spanish-inspired collection of villas, La Payesa is a fully gated complex of four villas and a shared space. The villas range from two to four bedrooms, each with their own private pool, sun deck, spacious garden and a wonderful team of staff. The boho chic, two-bedroom Es Palmador is perfect for small families, while the four-bedroom Las Salinas sleeps eight lucky travellers. The open-plan living space is decked out with entertainment and a fully equipped kitchen for those cosy nights in. Or, rent out the whole complex (Las Salinas and Es Palmador, plus the three-bedroom Es Cavallet and Illetas) for up to 24 guests.
La Payesa, Jl Umalas II No. 108, Umalas
4. Pandawa All Suite Hotel
Perfect for solo travellers and small families, Pandawa All Suite Hotel offers a number of comfy suites for you to call home. Each suite is a two-storey apartment with a fully equipped kitchen and dining area, plus a living space with a large flat-screen TV, a private bathroom with a bathtub, as well as a sun-soaked balcony. Choose from garden or pool views, or upgrade to an executive suite for more space!
Pandawa All Suite Hotel, Jl Umalas Klecung No. 8X, Umalas 2, Kerobokan, p. +62 361 8499 228 / +62 821 4639 4088, e. [email protected]
5. The Apartments Umalas
Clean, comfy and stylish, The Apartments Umalas offer something for everyone. The guest rooms are cute and cosy, while the two-bedroom apartments are perfect for small families. Whichever you choose, you’ll have access to the three shared pools and the on-site restaurant. And for those travelling in larger groups, choose the two- to four-bedroom villas that each sleep up to eight people. The villa is complete with a kitchen, living area, a private swimming pool and a tranquil garden too.
The Apartments Umalas, Jl Umalas Tunon Gang 5J, Kerobokan, p. +62 811 389 9455
6. Monolocale Resort
Home to both modern suites and chic private villas, Monolocale Resort is an eclectic stay just minutes from Seminyak’s golden sands. Whichever room you choose, each one is decked out with amenities galore, from Netflix and Spotify, to bathroom essentials from Sensatia Botanicals. We love the suites for a bright and breezy staycay, while the one-bedroom villas are perfect for couples and small families who want to settle in for longer. Spend your days by your private pool or at the shared main pool, then hit up the resort’s Sanctuary Restaurant to fuel up for a weekend of island adventures.
Monolocale Resort, Jl Umalas 1 No. 88A, Kerobokan, p. +62 823 4039 4223, e. [email protected]
7. The Concrete Retreat
Minimalist design meets tropical luxury, all under The Concrete Retreat’s roof. It’s a stylish escape with plenty of privacy, boasting two sleek bedrooms and interiors with their signature polished concrete walls. Maybe it’s the floor-to-ceiling windows and all the modern comforts, everything here feels easy breezy. Lounge by your private pool surrounded by lush greenery, whip up a feast in the fully equipped kitchen, or just sink into the plush sofas with a book (or a cocktail). The bedrooms are airy and chic, with big comfy beds and en-suites that feel like your own mini spa. Whether you’re planning a romantic honeymoon or a Bali retreat with friends, The Concrete Retreat is a dreamy home base you’ll never want to leave.
The Concrete Retreat, Kerobokan, Umalas, p. +62 821 4790 9060
8. El Barrio Boutique Hotel & Bar
Stepping into a retro tropical dream, AKA El Barrio, where every corner oozes charm, vibrancy and character. This boutique hotel is all about colourful vibes and quirky decor, offering unique rooms and a two-bedroom villa (each painted a different colour!) that feel more like a stylish hideaway than a typical hotel. While we can’t get over how bold and vintage-y the rooms are, we often go all out with the villa that includes our own little slice of paradise. Think lush greenery, a dreamy balcony and spaces designed for pure relaxation. Whether you’re lounging in the communal areas or soaking up the sun by the pool, El Barrio delivers a laid-back, fun-loving vibe that’s perfect for travellers who crave something a little different.
El Barrio Boutique Hotel & Bar, Kerobokan, Umalas, p. +62 821 4790 9060
9. Ukiyo Villa
Ukiyo combines everything we love about a Bali villa: modern luxury and tropical zen. This stunning hideaway offers a sleek, minimalist two-bedroom villa that feels more like your private sanctuary than a “typical villa”. The villa boasts a spacious open-plan living area and a private pool that practically beg for a lazy afternoon float. The bedrooms? Pure bliss! Think cosy beds, natural tones and en-suites where you can’t help but take extra time getting ready. Ukiyo’s stylish vibes and thoughtful touches will make you feel like Bali royalty, all you have to do is pack your sunnies and your favourite bikini, this is simple-yet-elegant living at its finest!
Ukiyo Villa, Gg. Nakula, Kerobokan, p. +62 821 4790 9060
THINGS TO DO IN UMALAS
1. Cruise through the rice field roads
If you’re licensed to ride a scooter, it’s one of the best ways to explore Umalas’ quaint streets, which merge from urban laneways with cool cafes, to tiny paths that cut through the rice fields. It’s something that you don’t often find in Bali’s other southern neighbourhoods, so it’s definitely worth ticking off your bucket list!
2. Raise your heart rate at a top gym
For the sporty bunch, you’ll be happy to know that Umalas is home to wellness destinations galore. The choice is yours, from fitness classes at the boutique 15 FIT gym, to tennis matches at Liga Tennis (pictured above) with five tennis courts, a squash court, plus basketball and padel too. Those who like to go fast on wheels, join the cool skater boys and girls at Amplitude Skatepark – you can even sign up for a professional coaching. Or, if you’d like to work on flexibility and strength, Umalas Pilates Studio is where you can go for a group class or a private session with top-notch Pilates Reformers.
3. Heal from the inside with Maja Healing
Make use of the tranquil and serene nature of the neighbourhood and escape the daily hustle and bustle at one of the best holistic wellness centres, Maja Healing. The doors are always open here, where you will be welcomed by the expert healers and therapists, who will happily tailor your very own path to healing.
4. Treat yourself to a head-to-toe pampering
A spa day is always a good idea in Bali – and Umalas is no exception. And make no mistake, around here we’ve got some of the most stylish spas on the island. In fact, we pop by Spa Anwa for a top-notch mani pedi post-brunch at its sister Bistro Anwa. Or we detangle our sea-salty tresses at the chic Iissii Hair Salon. And whenever we feel super indulgent? We go for a facial and a rejuvenating full body massage at Aliya Salon & Spa. Can’t go wrong with any of them!
5. Shop up a storm in neighbouring Seminyak
Being in such close proximity to Seminyak, staying in Umalas is a blessing for jetset fashionistas. Just a few minutes drive from the main street, you’ll find yourself in the heart of Petitenget, home to hundreds of island boutiques, luxury brands and jewellery stores too. To guide you in the right direction, here’s a list of where to shop in Seminyak.
6. Mingle with the cool kids in Canggu
Not only is Umalas close to Seminyak, you’re also just a short drive away from the hip and happening ‘hood of Canggu. A beach day in Canggu is a must, whether it’s for a long walk on the black sands, or to hit the famous waves. Along the beach, you’ll find Canggu’s coolest beach clubs where sunset cocktails await, and come nightfall, Canggu is home to some of the best restaurants and the most buzzing night clubs and late night bars on the island.
Love this guide to Umalas? Check out this guide to Seminyak too!
