Kotuwa’s new home in New Bahru boasts a beautiful dedicated bar space, which gives us another way to discover Sri Lankan cuisine – through drinks.
It goes without saying that Singapore is home to a diverse group of cultures, and with this comes a huge array of exciting cuisines. French, Japanese, Mediterranean, and African: your taste buds can have an international adventure without leaving the country. However, my curiosity and palate led me down a different path – cocktails from around the world. How do unique cultural aspects present themselves in a glass, and what makes each country’s flavours and drinking habits distinct? My questions led me to Kotuwa and its newly furnished, full-fledged bar in New Bahru to find some answers.
Did you know Kotuwa was a Covid-19 baby?
Although Kotuwa was founded by Sri Lankan chef Rishi Naleendra, it might surprise you to discover that he didn’t intend to spotlight his native cuisine. Instead, he started his career delving into modern Australian cuisine, opening the much-beloved Cheek by Jowl before moving on to create Michelin-starred Cloudstreet.
However, the hold our heritage has on us can be more powerful than anticipated, and after 15 years, his expertise found its way back home. Starting as a delivery and takeaway concept, Kotuwa saw massive success even during the tough times of Covid-19. So it came as no surprise when it debuted a space within Wanderlust Hotel at the tail end of 2020. Fans jumped at the chance to sink into the restaurant’s newly opened arms.
The same can be said for the bar’s latest facelift. Setting up its new home within the swanky New Bahru, Kotuwa returns with a new addition – a dedicated outdoor bar with its own unique cocktail menu and selection of bar snacks, helmed by talented self-taught bartender, Ashaka Harith.
Trading the keyboard for a cocktail shaker
A Sri Lankan bar most definitely calls for a Sri Lankan bartender. “It makes all the sense in the world,” Ashaka says.
It was a slow-burning twist of fate that led him to this moment. At the time 18 years young, he made the bold move to Singapore after getting a push from his cousin who encouraged him to study IT. Working part-time at restaurants to pay off his student fees, Ashaka eventually moved on to working at a bar. And like a good love story, it was love at first shake.
“The bar scene is energetic and vibrant. So much better than being stuck in front of a computer at a cubicle,” he tells me.
Having fallen head over heels with the industry, he took the bold move to drop out of school during his final semester to pursue bartending. His career led him to a fateful conversation with chef Rishi who was brainstorming ideas for Kotuwa at the time. Upon being offered a job, Ashaka jumped at the opportunity immediately.
A mainstay since day one of Kotuwa’s creation, you might consider Ashaka the face of Kotuwa’s bar. Despite my initial feelings of intimidation upon meeting him, he was quick to welcome me into the space, and the conversation soon turned into what felt like a catchup with a friend. Our interview was occasionally interrupted by fellow New Bahru tenants walking by to say hi to him, and Kotuwa regulars greeting him with great familiarity, which he returned with a warm smile. Instead of a restaurant’s bar, the alfresco area felt like the living room of a Sri Lankan home.
Is Sri Lanka the next It girl in the bar world?
I’ll be honest and admit that I know very little about Ceylonese cuisine and culture. So who better to ask than a Sri Lankan native? From the outside looking in, I never perceived Sri Lanka as a big drinking city. I was even pleasantly surprised to find the Colombo-based bar Smoke & Bitters on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, which hinted at a growing cocktail scene and fuelled my curiosity.
Ashaka recounts his own experiences during his childhood, explaining that drinking was more of a celebratory thing in his family. But as the years passed, a more vibrant scene began to bloom in Colombo.
“In the last 10 years, I’ve seen crazy developments in the scene – in a good way,” he says excitedly. While Sri Lanka’s bar scene might not be quite the same as Singapore’s, I think we’ll see some new and exciting things from Colombo very soon.
It also got me wondering how much localisation Kotuwa had to undergo before being introduced to Singaporeans. Ashaka tells me that while there are unfamiliar flavours in any new cuisine (Sri Lankan included), he finds Singaporeans adventurous and open-minded enough to give it a go. So it became less about catering to palates and more about gentle introductions.
At the end of the day, there’s no denying Kotuwa’s cult following and success. I’m told that Kotuwa’s reservation list is often filled up months in advance. Even as I wrapped up my chat with Ashaka, minutes before the restaurant’s doors opened, several outdoor tables were already filled with eager patrons ordering beers and bar snacks before their reservations.
Distilling the essence of Sri Lanka in a glass
When it comes to cuisines, styles and flavours typically make some more identifiable than others. It’s easy to figure out what can be considered Italian and Japanese at a glance. So what makes Sri Lankan flavours distinguishable from the rest?
In describing it to me, Ashaka delves back to memories of his childhood, recalling dishes his mother cooks. Admittedly, at first glance, it might be hard to tell Sri Lankan food apart from Indian cuisine. But Ashaka tells me the devil is in the details. Besides layers of spice, fresh tropical fruits, tamarind, and the use of coconut are quintessential ingredients in Sri Lankan dishes.
You’ll find these ingredients peppered through Kotuwa’s cocktail menu, which is themed around the 1996 Cricket World Cup. “It’s one of the most iconic moments in our sports history,” Ashaka says with a glint of pride in his eyes. Despite being the underdog, Sri Lanka pulled through, emerging as the overall champion against all odds. It’s still a hot topic to this day, even if the game was played almost 30 years ago.
Illustrated with bright and vibrant colours, each drink is named after key moments of the championship and embodies the Sri Lankan identity with its much-beloved sport. The newly furnished bar also boasts a rich collection of Ceylonese spirits. This includes a selection of arracks – a type of alcoholic drink made with fermented sap – which is widely consumed in Sri Lanka. For anyone who hasn’t tasted it before, I’d equate it to a whisky or a rum with an almost syrupy molasses finish. It’s both familiar and unique at the same time.
The sips, at a glance
Of course, this visit to Kotuwa’s new bar won’t be complete without sampling the signature cocktails. Let’s get into it.
Topped with a soft candy ball made of jaggery and sesame, Papare Papare ($25) is a great drink that shows what the Ceylon arrack can do. Ashaka tells me to eat the sweet treat before sampling the drink. You can consider this the Ceylonese version of an Old Fashioned. The arrack gives the drink a silky mouth feel, and the taste is almost candy-like.
I was mesmerised by the swirl of foam on the Islander’s Gamble ($25), which is strong and punchy. It’s slightly savoury with hints of curry leaf and a citrusy note with the use of passion fruit.
Meanwhile, Uncle Percy ($25) is an ode to superfan Percy Abeysekera, who became a beloved icon at cricket games. The drink is vibrant with the taste of tropical fruits that mask a lot of the rum and arrack flavours, making it an easy sipper. It’s the perfect drink for me while I sit at Kotuwa’s alfresco area, refreshing my body from the Singapore heat.
But the one drink that has my heart is The Souvenir ($25). It’s bright and acidic thanks to the addition of pickled mango, with floral notes from ginger flowers. I’d steer you away from this cocktail if you aren’t a fan of tart flavours. But as someone who loves them and enjoys an edible garnish, it was just the drink to perk me up.
Will Ceylonese cuisine be the next hot pick?
Despite its humble origins, Sri Lankan food has proven it can put on the big boy restaurant pants just like any other cuisine. Tightened and refined while keeping true to its roots, it brings fans back time and time again for the kottu rotti (a famous Sri Lankan street food), crab cutlets, and various curries. You might surprised to find dishes pairing fantastically with wine, elevating the whole dinner experience.
Drinks-wise, trust in Ashaka to give you a recommendation you’ll love. With the brand new bar space as his playground, he’s planning on creating even more flavourful and robust Sri Lanka-inspired cocktails. Not to mention the growing collection of Ceylon arracks and spirits, which guests are more than welcome to try when they pay Kotuwa a visit.
Ashaka admits he didn’t think he’d see the Sri Lankan dishes his mother used to cook plated up in a restaurant setting. But thanks to the team’s meticulous development of the menu and cocktail list, the potential of Sri Lankan cuisine is pushed sky-high. With tables booked up practically every night, if you ever needed a sign to make your reservations for Kotuwa, this is it.
