Skip the other new restaurants in Singapore and save stomach space for Hayop’s menu.
I was constantly fed Filipino food in one of my previous jobs. Pancit (stir-fried rice noodles), lumpia (spring rolls), sweet macaroni salad, and halo-halo (a traditional dessert similar to chendol and ice kacang) became my comfort food. However, the exposure also solidified my opinion of the cuisine. I found the dishes to be a tad too sweet and almost devoid of other flavours. This belief continued, even as I learnt of Hayop’s opening in Singapore. Will dining at Amoy Street’s new Filipino fine-casual restaurant change my mind?
Hayop review: Elevated Filipino cuisine in Singapore
Filipinos and those who are familiar with Manila will know of Manam, a popular food establishment that’s known for making diners feel at home with its hearty, comforting offerings. A decade passed before the trio behind the restaurant decided to launch a spinoff overseas, resulting in Hayop ni Manam’s grand opening in Singapore.
The new offshoot is a five-minute walk from Telok Ayer MRT station, so you can work up an appetite while making your way over. As I got closer, I noticed the stark contrast between Hayop’s exterior and other places along the same street. Unlike the other establishments, Hayop’s main entrance features wooden and glass screens, allowing natural light in. It felt like the restaurant was inviting me into the space.
Once I stepped inside, I was immediately struck by the cosy atmosphere. The wooden screens at the doorway extend into the interior, this time interwoven with floor-to-ceiling mirrors. Other design elements include the gorgeous lamps that descend from the ceiling, the weave work at the bar counter, and the artwork on the walls. Overall, it’s giving Filipino pride, and I bet the kapabayans (that’s countrymen in Tagalog) will feel mightly pleased with the restaurant’s look and feel.
Of course, Hayop’s true test is its food. Does it live up to expectations? More importantly, can the restaurant change my mind about Filipino cuisine?
Welcome to a Filipino feast
The feast kicked off with a strong start. I mean, we can’t eat at a Filipino restaurant and not have lumpia, right? Hayop’s version ($14 for two pieces) comprises roasted heirloom baby carrots, soy-braised jackfruit, pickled jicama (Mexican turnip or potato), and crushed peanuts on mung bean crepes. The dish is accompanied by a thick sauce made of minced garlic, sweet soy sauce, and mushroom stock.
I recommend eating the spring rolls once the plate lands on your table. Grab a piece, pour the sauce, and chow down. The umami flavours burst in your mouth from the first bite; you’ll feel tempted to keep the second lumpia to yourself. My only (minor) gripe is the price is a little steep for two pieces.
Another must-order starter is the showstopping crispy palabok ($26). The dish features deep-fried glass noodles with charred baby cuttlefish, grilled tiger prawns, smoked fish and fried pork flakes, hard-boiled egg, garlic, and spring onions. A savoury sauce is poured over the dish, softening and coating the noodles. It’s a great introduction to Filipino cuisine for first-timers. If the noodles and spring rolls aren’t enough, go ahead and order the sisig ($22), made from pork jowl and cheek and deep-fried with garlic, spring onions, and red chillies.
How about some vegetables for your plate? The ensaladang hayop ($14) is a winged bean salad tossed in a salted egg vinaigrette. I’ve never tried winged beans; they taste like a mix of bitter gourd (yucks) and okra (love it). You’ll either like it or you won’t. The garnishings – red radish, watermelon rinds, and salted egg white crumble – complemented the greens.
Hearty mains for communal feasting
It’s time to devour the ulam, which refers to mains in Tagalog. First up: the wagyu and watermelon sinigang ($56). This family recipe came about because of Manam’s co-founder, Eliza Antonio. Her mother was cooking the dish for her and decided to add the fruit. It’s a stroke of genius because the charred watermelon cuts through the tamarind broth. The super tender wagyu bone-in short rib soaks up the flavour, while the vegetables (blanched French beans, okra, kang kong, eggplant, and radish) add a crunchy texture. There’s no doubt about it – the sinigang is my favourite Hayop item.
Not into beef or can’t eat it? No worries, there are other proteins available. The whole spatchcock chicken inasal ($76) is marinated with lemongrass annatto oil before being grilled over hot coals. The skin is perfectly crispy, while the meat remains delectably juicy. Dip the chook in the accompanying lemongrass oil, which is like a mild combination of chicken rice’s ginger and chilli sauces, before popping it into your mouth. Finger lickin’ good!
Those who love eating fish should sink their forks into the inasal na panga ($34). The maguro jaw is prepared and cooked similarly to the chicken before being served with pickled watermelon, ginger, and lemongrass oil. As I savour the grilled tuna, I’m reminded of another Filipino dish: fried milkfish. The fish meat is tender and sapid, and I’m glad there are zero bones to deal with.
Being Asian, it’s a prerequisite to eat everything with rice. I recommend getting the sinangag ($6) – fluffy jasmine rice stir-fried with garlic. It smells divine and lends itself deliciously to the dishes.
Make room for desserts and tipples
This goes without saying: when dining at a Filipino establishment, you must save stomach space for sweet treats. You can stick to something simple like ube, brown butter, calamansi, or choco-nut ice cream ($6 per scoop). Or go for the standard halo-halo ($18), which comes with purple yam jam, nata de coco, red beans, palm seeds, candied beans and jellies, coconut jelly, leche flan, and ube ice cream. Pour the evaporated milk and mix everything before digging in.
If you want something warm, you can’t go wrong with the buko pie ($14). The taste profile is delightfully layered, with the sweetness coming from the coconut filling and whipped cream, while the shaved parmesan provides a salty contrast. Overall, it’s a rich and tangy pie that I enjoyed immensely. Pro tip: don’t share this with anyone!
What’s a meal without cocktails ($22)? There are six flavours for you to choose from: bitter, salty, sour, spicy, sweet, and umami. I’m told the sweet version is similar to a dessert cocktail, so you can consider this if you intend to skip the sweet treats. I had the ‘salty’ drink, which is made of tequila, lime, salted watermelon, sour plum, and orange peel. The watermelon and salted rim combo may be too much for some people, but the fruits help to balance the mixture.
As the feast came to an end, I decided to take stock of what I’d eaten. My conclusion? Thanks to this new restaurant, my thoughts on Filipino food have shifted — in a good way. I’m pleasantly surprised by how complex and flavoursome the dishes are. Hayop ni Manam is a beast of an addition to Singapore’s culinary scene; if you enjoyed its predecessor in Manila, you’ll have to drop by this restaurant.
Make a reservation for Hayop. Address: 104 Amoy Street, Singapore 069924; phone number: +65 8028 9012; opening hours: Tuesday – Saturday, 5pm to 9.30pm
