The vibes are vibing at Station by Kotuwa, a lively new restaurant made for buzzy gatherings and chill dates.
A fresh new take on Sri Lankan flavours, Station by Kotuwa is the latest star of the Telok Ayer area. Eagle-eyed fans will remember the Boon Tat Street address as the former home of Cheek By Jowl, Cheek Bistro, and Fool Wine Bar – every concept buzzworthy in its own right. And of course, the man behind it all is chef-owner Rishi Naleendra, whom you’ll know from Kotuwa in New Bahru. Curious and intrigued, I hopped on board the train bound for this restaurant inspired by the bustling railway hub in his hometown of Colombo, Sri Lanka, to see what it’s all about.
Station by Kotuwa review: A dining experience that leaves you in high spirits
Think of Station by Kotuwa as that social butterfly in your friend group. You know, the one with a high likability factor because of their irresistible glow, who flawlessly flits in and out of conversations, and amps up the energy in the room with their charisma. Even during my visit on a weekday night, the place was packed with bright-eyed patrons lured in by its captivating call.
I was instantly drawn to the restaurant’s charming decor, featuring Sri Lankan elements in the artworks, vintage pieces, and pendant lights made of salvaged plane motor parts. From the action in the open kitchen to the boisterous chatter of fellow diners to the playlist of East-West tunes with a tinge of funk, jazz and soul, the place feels like one that welcomes all with its cheery warmth.
Sitting by the open entrance, I glimpsed passers-by looking in curiously, some even spotting familiar faces within the restaurant to reunite with. Here, the spirited vibes match those of the lively railway station that inspired it, and the menu is a nod to Sri Lankan flavours in a more playful way than its sister restaurant, Kotuwa.
Whether you’re in the vicinity looking for a communal dining spot or you’re planning a casual date night, the restaurant is a versatile space that caters to all.
Rich, robust flavours for an evening of merrymaking
At the helm of the kitchen, head chef Jay Teo returns to work with Rishi after their time together at Cheek Bistro. And if you’re been following the latter’s journey, you’ll spot familiar yet new dishes on the menu.
It’s a shortlist packed prettily with snacks, starters, mains, sides, condiments, and desserts. These easily shareable, spice-forward small plates are perfect for grazing or passing around the table. But if you suffer from choice paralysis, opt for the Station Feast ($68++ per person) to enjoy the team’s selection of must-tries.
To start, I recommend the babath crispy tripe ($7). It’s deep-fried and tossed in a spice mix of cinnamon stick, cardamom, cumin, sweet paprika, chilli powder, and turmeric (among others), paired with a lime aioli dip. This is one of those addictive snacks you can’t help but nibble on amid animated conversation until you realise the plate is wiped clean and you simply must order another.
The pineapple and green olive pachadi ($8) is another winner in my books – every bite is deliciously tangy and juicy to get you started on a lighter note before you move on to the heavier mains. Similarly, the zesty kingfish dish ($18) with pickled jambu and green chilli pairs beautifully with the pappadum for a moreish snack.
Meanwhile, the Kaliya chicken liver dish ($14) served with chewy egg onion roti was, hands down, the table’s favourite. Alas, as someone who shudders at the thought of certain animal innards and struggles with the gamey taste of liver, I couldn’t fully appreciate it. But I will say, the rich and coconut milk-laden gravy beckoned me to go back for more.
The meaty stars of the show
It’s easy to fill up on starters at Station by Kotuwa, but hold out for the mains because they don’t disappoint. Before you scoff at someone for ordering the roasted half chicken ($34), just know that it hits different with Sri Lankan curry gravy. The tender, juicy bird is charred yet succulent, slathered with deviled butter (masala butter) and laid on a bed of aromatic curry.
Oh, and the beef cheek ($36)? Fork-tender and braised with herbs like lemongrass and pandan leaf. It’s served swimming in a coconut gravy made with Sri Lankan curry powder, chilli powder, desiccated coconuts, and tomato paste. Vegetarian or not, the grilled, golden brown cauliflower ($22) also makes a great addition to your order with its fragrant Sri Lankan coconut milk curry.
Of course, all this indulgence calls for sides to pair, and you’d be missing out if you didn’t order portions of white rice ($6) and roti ($4) to finish up every last drop of gravy. Think white rice is boring? Add more spice to your life with condiments like seeni sambol ($5, caramelised onions with tamarind powder), pol sambol ($5, grated coconut with chilli and lime), and wambatu moju ($5, eggplant pickled in coconut vinegar).
Some seriously sweet moments
Out of everything on the menu, the desserts are what fell short of wrapping up a stellar dining experience for me. Perhaps I was too full from the mains or my sweet tooth wasn’t saccharine enough, but the falooda ($12), a creamy and cold treat, didn’t entice me to dip my spoon back in for more.
Made of rose syrup, evaporated milk and condensed milk, as well as a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top, the layered dessert is refreshing. But its sugar level is also dialled up high, slightly overwhelming the chewy chunks of red agar jelly, nata de coco, basil seeds, sago pearls, and rice vermicelli.
However, if you can’t fathom a meal without a honeyed ending, I’d say go for the Valrhona chocolate biscuit pudding ($14). This decadent creation soaks Marie biscuits in milk and arrack, coats them with chocolate mousse, and tops it all off with arrack-spiked crème chantilly.
All that said, is Station by Kotuwa worth your time (and dime)? Absolutely. It’s a vibrant concept with a menu that packs a punch, so bring your next date here or pop by with friends for a bright and breezy dinner.
Must-try dishes: babath crispy tripe; braised beef cheek; Kaliya chicken liver
Price range: mains from $22++, drinks from $8++
Opening hours: Wednesday to Friday, 12pm to 3pm; Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm onwards
Address: Station by Kotuwa, 21 Boon Tat Street, Singapore 069620
