Violet Oon has found a new home in Dempsey, where it continues to deliver on bold flavours steeped in heritage recipes.
Violet Oon Singapore has taken its first momentous step, opening the brand’s first standalone restaurant within the lush Dempsey enclave. News of its Jewel outlet shutting down spread like wildfire when it was announced in February, but now that the Peranakan restaurant has established a new home, food lovers and dedicated fans need not fret. Opened alongside her children Yiming and Su-Lyn, the Dempsey outpost was born out of a labour of love and dedication from the whole family. And you can bet your bottom dollar I took the chance to visit the institution in the local food scene when the opportunity came.
Violet Oon Dempsey: A family affair
Fun fact: Violet Oon used to be a reporter and a choir mistress in the Singapore Armed Forces’ Music and Drama company in the 70s, which was located in the former British army camp that once occupied Dempsey.
“I used to be fetched by an army car to Dempsey from the newspaper building, Times House in Kim Seng Road, and after the choir training session, I was sent back to my reporter’s life!” she reminisces. You could say establishing the restaurant was a full-circle moment for her.
During my visit, I enjoyed a spirited chat with Su-Lyn, Violet’s daughter and creative director for Violet Oon Singapore. She tells me her brother Yiming and she share a common goal – to continue their mother’s legacy. This couldn’t be more thrilling for Violet, who was over the moon when her children took the initiative and stepped up to support the brand.
Every little part of the restaurant lives and breathes the Violet Oon legacy. Private diners are treated to nuggets of Violet’s past, which have been immaculately preserved. On the wall are pictures from her childhood, her awards, articles from her time as a journalist, and even her first cookbook!
The rest of the restaurant exudes the Violet Oon Singapore palette with the brand’s signature black, gold, and emerald green colours. Peranakan flair is exhibited from antique Nyonya tiles from the family’s personal collection, affectionately amassed over the years from Peranakan homes, as well as the brand’s old Jewel location. I could get into more details like beaded chandeliers and palm tree-inspired shapes around the restaurant, but we’d be here all day.
Recipes steeped in heritage
Dining at a Peranakan restaurant, you’d expect typical dishes like kueh pie tee, ngoh hiang, ayam buah keluak, and babi pongteh. But I was pleasantly surprised by a unique menu of items. Violet Oon has the classics, of course. However, my table was treated to a spread of heritage dishes, food that Su-Lyn describes as celebratory plates reserved for special occasions in their family home.
“How do you feel about liver?” my host asks me. “Curious!” I say, with apprehension I hope I hid well. My experiences with liver haven’t been the best. But considering I’ve enjoyed other innards like duck heart, I was more than willing to give liver another shot.
Hati babi bungkus ($24) is a star dish at Violet Oon Dempsey. Made with pork liver and wrapped in caul fat (a membrane from the innards), it has none of the intimidating iron flavour of liver. It’s umami and savoury, and has the texture of meatballs. The verdict: love it, would’ve wiped out the whole plate on my own.
I also enjoyed the compote in the assam nanas barramundi ($32). Diced pineapple is perfumed with assam, giving it a delicate flavour without being overly spicy. While I miss having the assam gravy to mix into my rice, I loved this unique take on a classic.
Sambal hijau is a green chilli paste commonly seen in Peranakan preparations – typically served on the side, it goes with practically everything. At Violet Oon Dempsey, it sits on top of a perfectly grilled wagyu ribeye. The daging panggang sambal hijau ($69) is indulgent, taken up a notch with the spicy sauce. Consider it a Peranakan chimichurri! My tip: don’t be too ambitious with the sambal, ‘cause the spice sneaks up on you.
Super sweet endings
No matter how full I am (and I was absolutely stuffed by this point), I’m always up for dessert. To me, it can either make or break the meal. However, I have some pretty high standards when it comes to sweets, and I’m picky about the balance of flavours.
Most of Violet Oon Singapore’s desserts feature gula melaka and coconut (my condolences to anyone with coconut allergies), save for a calamansi sorbet ($8) listed at the end of the dessert menu. However, you’d be pleasantly surprised by how versatile the dessert menu can be.
If you had a heavy dinner and want to go with something light, the Coconut Delight ($16) is your best bet. It features a jelly made from coconut water, topped with fresh coconut flesh, coconut ice cream, and shaved gula melaka. A coconut lover’s dream, really. I found it almost playful with the coconut presented three ways, each with a different texture and flavour.
For something indulgent, the roti jala with banana pengat ($16) will send you straight to heaven. I’d describe roti jala as a cross between funnel cake and crepes, the perfect vessel for sweet or savoury sauces. Think of pengat like an Asian custard, typically made with sugar, water, coconut milk, and a starch. Tear up the roti jala and enjoy it with spoonfuls of the banana pengat, which hits all the sweet notes.
But the true highlight for me was the gula melaka tea cake with coconut ice cream ($15). I often find gula melaka desserts too sweet and cloying – not here though. The caramelised top is pure indulgence. Paired with the coconut ice cream, it’s the perfect mix of temperatures and flavours. I even took some cake home with me!
The doyenne of Peranakan food shines again
Violet Oon Singapore’s Dempsey outpost is nostalgic and down-to-earth in its flavours but innovative and luxurious in its execution. The menu differentiates itself from its other locations, giving you the closest taste of what it would be like dining in Violet Oon’s home – a coveted experience for any discerning foodie.
It has carved out a place as a convivial get-together spot, already visited by loyal fans and their families. Whether you’re here for lunch catch-ups or a celebratory dinner, Violet Oon Dempsey serves exactly what you need.
The family spirit runs deep and is felt through each element. Violet and her children have created something special, and there’s something to be said about how readily they’re all willing to share their family food rituals with the rest of Singapore. I made plans for my next visit in the middle of my meal because I couldn’t wait to share the experience with the rest of my family, and I highly encourage anyone to do the same.
Must-try dishes: Hati babi bungkus, daging panggang sambal hijau, udang goreng chilli, gula melaka tea cake with coconut ice cream
How much: Mains start from $24
Opening hours: Daily, 12pm – 3pm & 6pm – 11pm
Address: Violet Oon Singapore at Dempsey Hill, 7 Dempsey Road, Singapore 249671
