The rebellious little sister to Marcy’s is bold, vivacious, and encompasses the best of East meets West dining.
It’s hard to put into words exactly how I feel about the closing of Hevel. Its closure came with the devastating news of chef-owner Stefan Liau’s death, and to say I was shocked was an understatement. I’ll admit that I’m biased – I’ve always had a soft spot for Hevel and its ever-warm service. It was one of the first few new restaurants in Singapore I reviewed by myself, and it’s where I met some of the loveliest people.
During its closing week, everything about the establishment was the same, but something about my dinner was sombre. It was hard to think something could replace it, but I knew the team behind Hevel would come up with something spectacular. Lo and behold, they continue to prove me right with Maggie’s, the most proudly inauthentic Chinese restaurant in the city.
An introduction to Maggie’s Singapore: American-Chinese retro dining
Stepping into Maggie’s immediately gave me memories of Hevel. It was the same bones of the old restaurant with a new look, wallpapered and drenched in red. I saw friendly faces all around, recognising them from my multiple dinners at Hevel, and greeted them in the same warm way they greeted me. It was all things familiar and new at the same time. Helmed by chef Ryan Nile Choo of Marcy’s, I already knew the food was going to be stunning.
But let’s talk about the restaurant first.
Despite the incredibly loud displays of Chinese heritage like old school movie posters, a dragon draped along one part of the restaurant, and blue-and-white porcelain pots, the ambience didn’t feel like a caricature of Chinese culture. In fact, it’s so classically Chinese it made me wonder where the inauthenticity would kick in.
Everything was lively, with most of the tables in the restaurant filled with excited diners. The music was also quite the mood setter, flipping between a mix of old Chinese music and songs like Billie Jean, Mambo Italiano, and Gimme! Gimme! Gimme! covered in Cantonese.
As I sat down, I was overly amused by the lack of chopsticks. “Dishonour!”, my ancestors would say. What Chinese restaurant doesn’t offer chopsticks as your cutlery of choice? But that alone was telling of the dinner I was about to experience.
Maggie’s Singapore review: Small plates with gigantic personalities
Inspired by drunken chicken, the Master’s Drunken Quail ($32) is an elevated version of the typical Chinese dish. It’s the most beautifully butchered quail I’ve ever been served. It’s tender with a gamey taste tempered by the drizzled shao xing wine, leaning towards the texture and flavour of duck. I don’t recommend eating the wings if you get squeamish about bones though – I crunched into some by accident and it lowkey freaked me out. But chicken feet fans will have a great time.
The “Golden Gun” Cigars ($18) resembles a dish previously served in Peach Blossoms. The crispy exterior is filled with minced tuna and sits in a pool of creme fraiche. Spring onion gives it a negitoro vibe, except the tuna comes in much bigger chunks. It’s fresh, creamy, and perfect for opening up your appetite.
A blend of French and Chinese influence brings us the Golden Prawn Croque Madame ($25), which I gobbled in seconds. After popping the sunny side-up egg, the focaccia still remains crispy. Combine that texture with firm prawns and you’ll be tempted to order a second one. I especially loved the numbing and fruity spice from the green peppercorn. While I didn’t enjoy the passionfruit hollandaise, my dining companion found the sweetness complemented the sandwich perfectly.
The highlight for me? The Mouth Watering Cod Milt ($24). I had only ever experienced shirako (cod sperm) in omakase dinners, so I was excited to have it in a unique preparation. The appearance can be intimidating, especially if this is your introduction to shirako, but it’s absolutely worth it. Get a spoonful of everything before bursting the milt in your mouth and letting the saltiness blend with the sweet relish and chilli oil.
Communal plates for groups
I could have stuffed myself on the appetisers, but the mains were just as enticing, so I had to put a pause on my snacking and get to the bulk of dinner.
The roasted pomfret ($36/$58) was a treat. Even with a half portion, it was filling and a surprise. The green peppercorn salsa verde gives the dish a brilliant kick of spice, if a bit salty. The best part of the dish was arguably the ginger, which was generously topped on the pomfret. Don’t turn your nose at it yet, because this garnish may just change your minds about the ever-heinous ginger. Caramelised to temper the vegetable’s usual spicy bite, my dining companion and I wiped the plate clean – ginger and all.
In Chinese fashion, I ate the fish eye too. For the curious, the eye tastes like the fatty part of the fish, full of umami. You just have to bite through the plasticky exterior. Try it! I highly encourage you to.
Maggie’s Southern Dirty Rice ($35) has a clear Louisiana influence. Monkfish liver and lap cheong (a type of Chinese sausage) are utilised instead of sausage and chicken liver. After a generous pour of aged yellow wine, toss the rice to make sure every grain is covered in the smooth liver parfait. Every bite explodes with savoury flavour.
However, don’t underestimate the portion because it’s more than enough for two (even three) people. I ended up taking some rice home because it was so indulgent, I could only stomach a few mouthfuls. But trust me, if I could finish it, there wouldn’t be a single grain left.
Not-so-Chinese sips
Just like the rest of the food menu, classic cocktails are given a twist with Asian ingredients.
I started with the Lucky No. 8 ($21), a variation on a gin and soda made with preserved tangerine-infused Bombay Sapphire and plum. It’s great for opening up the appetite – crisp, sweet, and sour all in good measure. Same with the Golden Hour ($21), a highball variation with osmanthus-infused kakubin and goji berries. It’s surprisingly sweet but very palatable.
The one drink that surprised me was the Red Date Dew ($22). I’m not a fan of red date tea, but the recommendation came from Miguel – the general manager of all Pleasurecraft concepts – and I’ve always trusted his judgment. And the team delivers, as always.
The drink is simple – red date tea and winter melon spiked with white rum. But it might be the most comforting cocktail I’ve had in a while. It’s boozy but sweet – an easy sipper for anyone who typically doesn’t drink. A perfect way to end my night.
Maggie’s Singapore: The final verdict
This medium “F” you to tradition was an absolute delight – and I expected nothing less from the team at Pleasurecraft. Maggie’s is reminiscent of Marcy’s, with even more playful and audacious touches that give the restaurant its personality. Its seductive inauthenticity is what gives it its shine. Couple that with warm service and delicious food, and you’ll be back in no time.
Like any new restaurant, I’d say it needs time to tighten its loose ends and take the first round of feedback to smoothen things out. But as a loyal fan of all things Pleasurecraft, I’m an advocate for giving it a try. In a world where we’re so dedicated to accurate representations of cuisines, Maggie’s is a breath of fresh air with its rebellious take on fusion plates that are both authentic yet wildly inaccurate at the same time.
I’ll be back to try the lamb tartare and cacio e pepe, which I’ve heard has an intense flavour thanks to the fermented beancurd. Oh, and of course I’m ordering the shirako again. I’m gonna see if I can finesse my way into getting some sourdough toast to go with it.
Must-tries: Mouth-Watering Cod Milt, Golden Prawn Croque Madame, Maggie’s Southern Dirty Rice
How much: Mains start at $26
Opening hours: Tuesday – Thursday, 5.30pm – 11pm; Friday – Saturday, 5.30pm-12am; Sunday, 5.30pm – 11pm
Where: Maggie’s Singapore, 1 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089109
What should I review next? DM @honeycombers on Instagram or drop me an email at [email protected]
