Peh Gao Coffeeshop review: Is this modern kopitiam worth the detour?

Peh Gao Coffeeshop reimagines the kopitiam experience with zhushed-up classics and brunch vibes.

Unless you live in the Bukit Timah neighbourhood, you probably won’t know of Peh Gao Coffeeshop’s existence. It’s the daytime concept of Orh Gao Taproom, a popular craft beer bar in Serene Centre. The brand reopened in a new space earlier this year, with the contemporary coffee shop taking the reins in the mornings and afternoons. Is this new brunch spot in Singapore worth barking about, or should it be left with a whimper? My colleague and I visited during lunch to find out.

Peh Gao Coffeeshop review: Details at a glance

Best for: When you want kopitiam vibes without the heat and chaos
Must-try items: Nasi lemak beef rendang; kaya butter toast; yuan yang
How much: Bread items from $2.80; noodles from $12; rice dishes from $11; sides from $4; drinks from $2.70
Opening hours: Daily, 8am to 3pm (lunch served from 10am to 2pm) & 4pm to 11pm except Mondays (opens till late on Fridays & Saturdays)
Address: Peh Gao Coffeeshop, #01-06, Serene Centre, 10 Jalan Serene, Singapore 258748

Modern take on the coffeeshop experience

Think of Peh Gao – meaning white dog in Hokkien – in the same vein as kopitiam greats like Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Toast Box. The dining spot aims to elevate the coffeeshop experience by offering zhushed-up versions of familiar local staples that’ll have you switching alliances faster than the contestants on Survivor.

The reimagined approach extends to the dining as well. Forget rickety stools and tables, and overly bright lighting. It’s all moody and intimate here, with a lighted Peh Gao sign behind clear fluted panels, slightly dimmer lighting, dark walls, and tables with checkerboard patterns. There’s also a sheltered alfresco section, which can accommodate diners and their furry friends. Yes, Peh Gao Coffeeshop is a pet-friendly space!

Despite it being 11.30am on a Wednesday, the place was bustling with high spirits: folks in the older age group chatting, the clanging of utensils on plates and bowls, and brisk movement all over. This was a pleasant surprise to me, given it was a weekday. “These people didn’t have to work?” I whispered to my colleague as we took our seats.

So, the team has nailed the look and vibes, but how will the “modern reinterpretation” be translated into the menu? That’s what I’m about to find out…

Familiar classics with a twist

Peh Gao’s menu is split into various options, from traditional toasts and open-top sandwiches to noodles, rice, and sides. Our order arrived promptly, giving us little time to settle down and soak in the ambience.

We started with the nasi lemak beef rendang ($15), one of the coffeeshop’s main characters. One bite of the braised beef cheek, and I fully understood why the dish often sells out early, according to the staff. The meat is tender and smooth, releasing rich, aromatic rendang flavours the more I chewed. The egg yolk oozed out perfectly when I dug into it, while the sambal had a good balance of sweet, savoury, and spicy.

After having the beef rendang, the nasi lemak rempah chicken ($12) paled in comparison. No contest – if you’re craving nasi lemak in Singapore, go straight for the star dish.

The kaya butter toast ($2.80) looked like your standard kopitiam breakfast staple, except it features custard-like kaya that’s prepared in-house. Pro tip: don’t wait too long to eat these. Our toast arrived while we were tucking into a few other dishes, and we only managed to tend to them much later. They still tasted good – I could get a sense of how the kaya is different from other known coffeeshops – but the toast felt a little limp.

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Beyond the brunch options

Even though my colleague and I were there for brunch, we managed to try some dishes from the evening menu (aka Orh Gao Taproom), all in the name of investigative journalism. (Kidding, we were just being shameless big backers.) I enjoyed the crunchy chicken cartilage ($12), which came with hot chilli sauce. This sharing plate goes well with a few pints of beer.

Next, the curry mussels ($21). The sambal butter was creamy and indulgent, and I couldn’t stop going back for more. But don’t waste it all – leave some for the focaccia bread to mop up the gravy. The mussels were plump and nicely cooked, though I reckon you could swap them with something else since the sambal butter is the true star here.

My colleague had a half pint of Red Lagoonies ($20) – no, we weren’t day drinking, it’s part of the job! – after sampling everything on tap. “It’s fruitier than regular beer,” she told me after a few sips. Meanwhile, I was nursing Peh Gao’s yuan yang, and as a true half-half connoisseur (yes, I’m still tracking down all the yuan yangs in Singapore), I say the drink was serviceable, nailing the coffee to tea ratio and not too much milk.

So, is it worth a visit?

Our brunch session came and went like a typhoon, and we were done before I realised it. Peh Gao Coffeeshop nails the atmosphere: a modern, comfortable take on the traditional kopitiam that clearly resonates with the neighbourhood crowd. The steady stream of diners speaks for itself.

Food-wise, the nasi lemak beef rendang is a standout, but the rest of the menu feels like it’s still finding its footing. Some dishes could use more finesse in execution or flavour. That said, it’s early days, and there’s room for the team to refine and grow into its concept.

Would I come back? If I’m in the area and craving familiar local dishes in a more comfortable setting, yes. Otherwise, I’d still gravitate towards nearby hawker options… unless the crowds there get out of hand.

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