Can food made by your grandparents be taken to new heights? Belimbing is here to prove Singapore flavours have endless potential waiting to be unlocked.
Can Singaporean food be fancy? Well, that’s what Belimbing aims to do. When you imagine Singaporean cuisine, you probably think about typical hawker fare. I’m talking chilli crab, char kway teow, chicken rice, nasi lemak – you get the picture. It’s fuss-free, comforting, and best found in zi char spots. But what if our local flavours were stretched to their limits and raised to new heights? That’s where the team at Belimbing come in, and I believe they’re onto something.
Belimbing Singapore: The meaning, inner workings, and people behind it
The first question I had in my mind: why Belimbing? For the uninitiated, belimbing is a type of fruit closely related to starfruit. It’s green and sour, normally used in savoury preparations. You can even eat it raw, like what head chef Marcus Leow did with his family at home.
For him, it was the centrepiece after family meals. Eaten simply with salt, it became a core memory of his childhood. But it also served as the seed of inspiration for Marcus, who boasts an impressive resume.
Before Belimbing, the 33-year-old chef spent time at restaurants like Spruce, Iggy’s, and Whitegrass before joining Magic Square, an incubation space for young chefs to showcase their culinary chops. It was there that Marcus began to flourish.
After spending two years in London’s Michelin-starred Ikoyi, he returned as chef de cuisine of Naked Finn and jump-started the second edition of Magic Square to impart his knowledge to the next generation of chefs.
Now, as head of R&D for The Coconut Club and head chef at Belimbing (which is hosted under The Coconut Club brand), Marcus spotlights his concepts and vision for the future of Singapore’s cuisine.
“Belimbing is something everyone knows, but not everyone knows what to do with it,” he explains while skillfully expediting dishes. I’m told the name is a metaphor for the hidden potential of Singaporean fare. Just like how the team reimagines the use of this classic fruit, we’re treated to their rendition of what our local flavours can be.
What’s for dinner at Belimbing’s table
Belimbing currently has course menus for lunch and dinner. The two-course lunch menu starts from $58 with a selection of a la carte dishes available exclusively in the afternoon. To see the full range of what Belimbing has to offer, I’d suggest visiting at night for the four-course dinner ($88). Come as a group and you’ll conquer the entire menu!
The aged kanpachi features guava, another lesser utilised fruit, with mussels and coconut milk, creating a cold laksa dish. It’s delicately seasoned but no less delicious – the perfect dish to whet your appetite.
In another creation, the smoked wagyu ox tongue sits on a bed of stracciatella, blending brilliant smoky flavours with creamy textures. It’s served with a bright red chinchalok – sauce made from fermented shrimp. Don’t worry, because the colour is far more intimidating than its flavour.
If you love rojak, I recommend you order the grilled firefly squid. The team’s rendition uses kailan, haegor (prawn paste) caramel, and strawberries. It has the essence of rojak, yet it’s refreshing in its execution.
Singaporean chawanmushi comes in the form of clam custard with assam pedas and white pepper – familiar flavours delivered in Belimbing’s unique way. I’d recommend making sure all the layers are even because I accidentally took in a huge mouthful of white pepper sauce, and it overwhelmed my palate (and my nose).
The braised angus oxtail is reminiscent of sup buntut, except presented elegantly. The broth is clear and not oily, with tender oxtail packed full of meaty flavour, tempered by the potato foam, which was creamy without any of the heaviness.
The most Singaporean bread course ever
If you ask me what the bread and salad course would look like at a new-gen Singaporean restaurant, Belimbing’s version is exactly what I’d describe.
I was particularly excited for this communal course, which was a dish of crispy meesua served with various accompaniments. Meesua kueh has always been one of my favourite foods, so to see something I had lost from my childhood was a thrill.
The fried meesua cakes serve as a vessel for sauces and spreads, just like the sourdough you might be served elsewhere. The whipped otah replaces butter, while soybean sauce acts as the vinegar, and a gado gado-inspired side dish lightens your palate. It’s a presentation that’s smart, familiar, and unique all at the same time.
My recommendation is to taste every component individually first before combining them for a symphony of flavour and memory.
Bentos done the Singaporean way
It wouldn’t be a truly Singaporean meal without some rice, which is why all the mains come with a bowl of it, as well as veggies and ikan bilis (dried anchovies).
The wok-fried nasi ulam is a highlight I recommend trying. Flavoured with herbs, the rice is so fragrant I’d love to have it on its own, but here you get to enjoy it with a piece of fried fish. The fish is seasonal, depending on what’s available at the market, and I was treated to a perfectly fried white pomfret, scored in a way that made flaking the fish apart a breeze.
I’d imagine the fried chicken being a go-to choice for any diner, thanks to the addition of yellow curry. What’s better than sauce with rice? The texture of the batter gives you a satisfying crunch, while the curry compels you to savour it with spoonfuls of coconut rice. The strong aromatic flavours make this a hearty choice among the mains.
Finally, the grilled short rib is served on top of a bed of braised tapioca leaves, which lend an added earthy flavour. My top tip is to spread the black garlic percik all over the meat to enhance the taste. I wish I had a touch more salt on the meat so its seasoning could stand on its own, but I still enjoyed every bite. And yes, I spooned that green curry all over my rice, too.
Not-too-sweet treats
For those who are already familiar with chef Marcus’s work, the dessert menu alone will convince you to make a reservation.
During his days at Magic Square, Marcus was known for his corn salat, which quickly became a fan favourite for diners. This variation of kueh salat uses corn and all its elements. Think husks, leaves, kernels, and silk! The result is a sweet and savoury custard set on sticky rice, served with tea made from corn.
Min jiang kueh has become a recent obsession of mine, so I was quick to get Belimbing’s version. Filled with cempedak cream and peanuts, the pancake is soft and chewy while the filling is salty and nutty. Don’t come in expecting typical min jiang kueh because this one strays away from being overly sweet, which is great if you’re averse to sugary desserts.
What surprised me the most was the pumpkin bingka, a type of Indonesian cake. Despite savoury elements like tempeh and white miso listed in the ingredients, this is arguably one of Belimbing’s sweetest desserts. But it’s incredibly well balanced, and the perfect end to this course menu.
Also, shout out to the selection of coffees and teas available to round off the meal. There’s something about receiving tea on a tray that makes me all warm inside. I ordered a glutinous rice pu-er tea and teh tarik with ginger syrup, and both came on trays with a pot of tea, teacup, and a little cake that reminded me of kueh bahulu. Oh, and the teh tarik was served with milk and syrup on the side so I could customise the flavours.
Singaporean sensibilities on multiple plates
One thought that lingers in my mind is the typical Singaporean exclamation of how you can find the same flavours and dishes elsewhere, but cheaper. And it’s true. Scissors cut curry rice, rojak, laksa, and other flavours at Belimbing are easily found in every corner of our little island. However, thinking beyond the price point will greatly enhance your experience here.
Marcus’s dedication goes beyond the kitchen, spending early mornings in the market and staying till late after the rest of the team has gone home. And the fruit of his labour can be seen in his innovation, with creative spins on dishes that make them new yet familiar and comforting. If you take a step back to appreciate the attention to detail and layers of thought in each dish, you’ll be in awe.
Singaporeans tend to stick to the status quo (iykyk), and there’s nothing wrong with that. But Marcus shows how much you can do when you explore beyond the confines of expectation. And thank goodness he did, because we get this dining experience out of it now.
Must-try dishes: Wok-fried nasi ulam, fried chicken, clam custard, fried meesua
How much: Lunch course menu starts from $58, dinner course menu starts from $88, a la carte menu starts from $18
Opening hours: Tuesday – Wednesday, 6pm – 8pm; Thursday – Sunday, 12pm – 1.30pm & 6pm – 8pm
Address: Belimbing, 269A Beach Road, Singapore 199546
