Singapore’s Artichoke reinvents itself with pizza, and we’ve tasted every slice to give you the full lowdown.
After 15 years of serving Middle Eastern food in Singapore, Artichoke decided to flip the script by transforming its restaurant into a pizza parlour. Hold up! Is the establishment going through a midlife crisis? Or is it a much-needed change? I dropped by to see what the fuss was about. After all, when an icon ditches mezze for mozza, it’s basically the culinary equivalent of Taylor Swift going full-on pop.
Artichoke review: Details at a glance
Best for: Pizza obsessives, fans of chef Bjorn Shen, and those who love a good plot twist
Opening hours: Tuesdays, 5pm to 10pm and Wednesdays to Sundays, 11am to 10pm
How much: Pizzas from $24; snacks from $8; sharing plates from $20; desserts from $14
Address: Artichoke, #01-02, New Bahru, Kim Yam Road, Singapore 239351
Goodbye mezze, hello pizza
The burning question on everyone’s lips: why the sudden change? According to chef Bjorn Shen: “It’s like we’ve been playing the same video game for 15 years. We’ve still got lives left, and it’s getting boring. So now we’re switching things up.”
Turns out, the plot twist isn’t so random. Pizza happens to be his all-time fave – he even has a tattoo of it inked on his arm. His carb-fueled love story started in childhood, when family dinners at Milano’s Pizza Restaurant were a regular affair, and later carried into his early working days in Australia, where he learned to bake pies.
So yes, the pivot is personal. But how did the public take it? The decision to overhaul Artichoke was met with curiosity, scepticism, and the kind of side-eyes usually reserved for pineapple on pizza. Some diners were intrigued, others mourned like they’d just lost a bet. One follower on our Instagram reel even lamented the “disappointing” change. But hey, not everyone can handle a glow-up.
Exploring the three pizza types
As someone who has visited his fair share of pizza places in Singapore, I was curious to see if the restaurant’s overhaul was worth the effort. The revamped menu features three pizza personalities: Slabs (crunchy rectangles), Stacks (double-decked stuffed slabs), and Rounds (fried and baked puffy pies).
The first Slab I sank my teeth into was the beef pepperoni with chilli honey and pickled long peppers ($26), which is savoury, smoky, and spicy, with a tinge of sweetness. I daresay we were off to a good start! Next, I had the dirty margherita ($22), which comes with mozzarella, pecorino, tomato, basil, and spicy garlic oil – if you loved the regular version, this will be a hit with you. One thing I loved about the Slabs is the cheesy bases, which add more dimension to the pies’ flavour profiles.
When the Stacks arrived at our table, the first thing I thought of was how they resembled a bready lasagna, thanks to the double layers. The dirty duck ($30) was brimming with Bali-spiced duck and sambal matah; think of it as a loving tribute to Indonesian cuisine. After the first bite, I felt transported straight to Jakarta’s street food stalls, minus the traffic jams.
Unfortunately, the Rounds were where I encountered the first roadblock. The Ink Floyd ($30), containing spicy octopus ragu, squid ink, potato cream, and basil, felt like the weakest link after everything I tried. I wasn’t sure if this pie was intended to taste briny or spicy; the addition of the potato cream further confused the flavour profile. Skip this one and save your carbs for the slabs and stacks.
Sides, sharing plates, and sweet treats
Of course, it’s not a proper Artichoke dining experience without trying everything else. The new menu is decked out with sides, snacks, and desserts – enough to start and end your meal. Ready your palate with the green and gold kiwi ($14) plate. There are two types of kiwi used, so you get a mixture of sweetness and slight tanginess. The pecorino, black pepper, and mint ensure this side doesn’t end up being two-dimensional.
Fans who want a throwback to the restaurant’s past life should order the beef lasagna nuggets ($16). This is a moreish dish, though I do wish the crew were more generous with the red sauce. Another revived favourite is the creamy green harissa prawn, which now comes with spaghetti ($34). I can’t put my finger on it, but the dish tasted familiar… the closest I could think of is mee rebus.
One must-order is the super crunchy fried chicken ($24). Tip: be sure to eat them immediately – these babies lose crunch faster than McDonald’s fries in humid weather! Between the two available options, go for the za’atar honey and Lebanese garlic sauce. It perfectly complements the chook, and you’ll be going for seconds and thirds without realising it. I can’t wait to be back just to have this sharing plate – all to myself!
There are only three dessert selections, but thankfully, they’re all equally delicious. My top vote goes to the cinnamon cherry pie ($18) – it’s warm and not too sweet, balanced with slightly tart, nutty, and citrusy notes. If you prefer a cool scoop, the sundae ($20) will definitely hit the spot. The banana croutons give it some crunch, ensuring the treat isn’t texturally flat.
Verdict: Is Artichoke 2.0 worth it?
Change is never easy, especially when you’ve been holding court for 15 years, but Artichoke has always been more than just a restaurant – it’s chef Bjorn’s sandbox for culinary chaos. This pivot proves he’s still not afraid to smash it up and build something new. It’s bold, risky, maybe even reckless… but also kind of brilliant.
That said, not every dish is a slam dunk yet (looking at you, Ink Floyd), but that’s the thrill of Artichoke 2.0. Give it a little time, and I bet the non-believers will be back, fork in hand, pretending they never complained in the first place.
P.S. Shoutout to the derpy dog illustration on the menu. If anything can soften the haters, it’s this scruffy little mascot leading the pizza revolution.
