Make Hevel your first fine dining experience with an affordable price point and plates that don’t intimidate.
I had the pleasure of getting a sneak preview of Hevel before its official soft launch in Singapore, and I’ve been enamoured ever since. The new face at Keong Saik has an air of mystery about it. It’s draped in marble, opulent burl wood, buttery suede, and gleaming stainless steel – not what you’d expect from its quiet presence on the street. Plus, it comes from the same great minds that opened Marcy’s and Parliament, both establishments that I’m a big fan of. So to say that I was excited was an understatement.
Into the warm arms of a familiar friend
You’re welcomed with warm hospitality the minute you step into the space, with smiles and greetings abundant. Music and chatter set the tone for an intimate dinner party, each sequestered to their own little sections in the restaurant. The tables are round (perfect for hushed conversations with a group of friends, if you ask me) and flanked by cushy banquettes. There’s also a private dining room, and it’s only partially obscured, leaving you wondering what’s happening behind the partition.
Its charm will beckon you in, while the open kitchen tempts you with a show of what’s to come. The service is impeccable, attending to you before you even realise you need something. And despite the concept leaning towards the fine dining side, it isn’t intimidating.
Communal small plates are the new it-girl
If you ask any of the Hevel team what cuisine they’re working with, they’ll tell you it leans contemporary European. But after chatting with chef Stefan Liau, I’ve learned that it’s more nuanced than that. Contemporary European only scratches the surface of what he envisions for his menu.
Chef Stefan draws inspiration from his travels and childhood while employing techniques and expertise from his experiences at notable Michelin-starred establishments like Spoon by Alain Ducasse, Terra, and Cure. If he had a choice, European wouldn’t be the word he’d use to describe his food. He simply wants it to be known as his.
My dining companion and I found ourselves lucky to be seated at the table closest to the kitchen, where we witnessed the action first-hand. The Chef’s Menu ($138++) is a six-course delight featuring 11 dishes. As the menu changes with seasonality, the price tends to change depending on what’s fresh and available. I won’t lie, I was a little intimidated at first. The menu introduces the ingredients with little description of how they’ll be prepared. Funky combinations like cashew combined with banana in the appetiser, and cauliflower blueberry in the mains threw me off. But my worries were for nought because I indulged in every bite of the sharing plates.
My favourite dish of the night was the barley and onion dish topped with shredded duck – so good that my dining companion and I asked for another serving of it. I was sceptical about the use of barley, but the uniquely chewy texture made this porridge dish familiar yet elevated. I also couldn’t resist the octopus served with piquillo pepper and salsify. Delish.
A certified fortified wine lover
As someone who picks drinks over food, I have to shout out the beverage programme. Whether you go for the wine ($88++) or cocktail pairing ($68++), you’ll be treated to some delicious libations. The wine list focuses on lesser-known labels from family-owned estates, highlighting unique wineries from countries like Thailand and China.
The cocktail menu flows along a similar thread, championing fortified wines like vermouth, sherry, and port adding playful touches to classic cocktails like the negroni and gin fizz. I’m not normally a fan of martinis, but Hevel’s variation might be the one that changes my mind. The addition of Mancino Secco gives it a herby aroma while the use of bitters creates a cocktail that’s incredibly easy to sip on for the whole night.
The showmanship is clear even at the end of the meal. Before tucking into our Earl Grey pudding and strawberries and cream desserts, we were treated to a taste of Graham’s 10-year-old tawny port poured straight out of a huge 4.5L bottle. It’s still a major talking point whenever anyone asks about my visit of Hevel and whether they should visit when in Singapore.
With ingredients like uni, Iberico pork, and octopus on the menu, I’d say the price point of a multi-course dinner here is a steal. It’s perfect for date night or a celebration that won’t blow a huge hole in your pocket. I know I’m already looking for my next excuse to visit again. To my darling Hevel martini, please wait for me.
Hevel, #01-04, 1 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089109
