I visited Asin to see whether Chef Ace Tan's latest restaurant in Singapore serving progressive Asian cuisine lives up to his legacy.
Getting a do-over in Singapore’s competitive culinary scene isn’t common – which is why chef Ace Tan’s return with Asin is a pleasant surprise. When his previous venture, Asu at Labrador Nature Reserve, shuttered at the end of last year, gourmands thought that was the last they’d see of the soft-spoken chef. Thankfully, he teamed up with Suguru’s Desmond Heng and opened this new restaurant in Singapore back in April. Is it a worthy successor? I stopped by for dinner on a weeknight to find out.
Asin review: Details at a glance
Best for: Foodies seeking a thoughtful chef’s-counter experience
Must-try items: Seasonal menu
How much: Dinner tasting menu at $188++ per person
Opening hours: Wednesdays to Sundays, 6pm to 11pm
Address: Asin, 38 Carpenter Street, Singapore 059917
A tranquil space with thoughtful touches
Surreptitiously located along Carpenter Street in Singapore, you wouldn’t pay much attention to Asin unless you’re actively looking for it. Once you spot the entrance, it’s like being handed a golden ticket into a zen, minimalist abode. Dark browns and neutrals dominate the space, with seating options including a curved 10-seater counter, a semi-private table for four, and a private dining spot that seats up to eight people.
If it’s your first visit, I’d recommend booking a counter seat. Besides offering a front-row view of the kitchen in action, it’s also the best spot for interacting with chef Ace and watching each dish come together.
Two things within Asin that caught my eye: a majestic tree installation and a large artwork created by chef Ace’s partner. The tree felt like the restaurant’s centrepiece, which changes following the seasons and menus. Take a moment to marvel and snap some photos before taking your seat.
If you’re sitting at the counter, be sure to direct your gaze to the painting, split into three sections. The setting may look ordinary – an old lady and a child outdoors with various animals – but I was told that the depicted animals actually appear on the restaurant’s current menu. Think of it as a fun (albeit random) way of spotting which dishes correspond to the animals in the paintings.
Summer arrives in bite-sized form
Asin is a continuation of chef Ace’s progressive Asian cuisine philosophy, tying four seasons and five elements together and presenting them in Singapore. At the time of my visit, the restaurant was only open for dinner, with the menu ($188++ per person) showcasing dishes perfect for summer. The experience took around two and a half hours from start to finish, including supplements, though the pacing never felt sluggish.
My dining experience began with a deconstructed oyster omelette, fashioned as a delicate sphere topped with egg floss, chilli holy basil sauce, and garlic chive flower. I had to strike a balance between being careful and swift when eating this. Tip: don’t overthink this, just use your pincer grip and pop it into your mouth. 10/10 for imagination and execution.
Following that was the tori luffa bao, a dim sum bite packed with braised chicken and cubed luffa gourd. The assam tomato hamo was the first standout for me, largely ‘cos it managed to be subtly sweet, punchily sour, and incredibly vibrant. Rounding out the first section was a crispy spring roll equally coated in tomato and corn powder, and filled with smoked horse mackerel, coconut opor dressing, and cucumber.
One dish, maximum impact
The appetiser course only has one dish, but it’s the one that has put many diners in a chokehold. Introducing the yum pu ma noodles, featuring chilled fern and rice noodles, raw marinated crab, and a salad comprising Ceylon spinach, hanaho flowers, and Borneo mango tossed in furu dressing.
As someone who loves noodles, it was hard to put my bias aside, so I’ll just come out and say it: this dish was my second standout. It’s a refreshing shift from the first course, like the yin to the richer yang of the dim sum I had earlier. The only unfortunate thing was the portion size. It was too small! I reckoned it would’ve worked well as part of the mains.
Where the menu flexes its muscles
Speaking of mains, the course consists of two creations: Black Beauty and jiang yu ma. The first dish places black emperor fish front and centre, accompanied by white fish bone, green moroheiya, and brown jungle garlic caramel sauces. Chef Ace could’ve taken a lighter approach with this dish, but I appreciated his decision to pair it with stronger flavours for a striking contrast.
The jiang yu ma brings together roasted Irish duck with watercress consomme and mountain yam rice. Don’t worry about gameyness – you won’t find it here, thanks to a trio-ginger brine, Chinese coriander, and chilli farce. The consomme was delicious and had good depth (not thin or one-dimensional), while the rice offered an earthy balance to the rich duck.
It was finally time for dessert, which came in the form of biwa honey sago. The hefty chrysanthemum-poached loquat is florally sweet and pairs well with the coconut and glutinous rice, both fermented with sea salt for a day. Bird’s nest adds more texture to the overall dish.
Save room for the add-ons
If you think this dinner menu is more than enough… well, let’s just say, chef Ace has more tricks up his sleeve. Each course includes the option of a supplement, and I was lucky enough to devour all of them. Diners can choose between the ngor hiang ($18), FTQ dumpling ($35), pepper Hanwoo ($55), and gula apong caramel ($18). The question now is: which one should you add to your dining experience?
Out of the four, I rank the pepper Hanwoo at the top of my list. Sure, it might be heavy to have this immediately after the duck, but with Hanwoo beef gaining more traction in Singapore, you should highly consider trying this dish. It’s moreish, with the Sarawak pepper sauce, kumquat kosho, black garlic, and confit grilled leek lending different flavours to the meat.
The gula apong caramel came a close second. Two sweet treats might seem too much, but this one is the opposite of the biwa honey sago. It’s smoky-sweet with loads of textural elements courtesy of the decaf coffee jelly, cashew crumble, Japanese cherries, and attap seeds.
Do your taste buds deserve Asin?
I’ve had the privilege of dining at Asu, and I’m pleased to note that Asin is a worthy successor. It distils chef Ace’s modus operandi and refines the menu into key dishes that fit into his philosophy. I sensed a lot of pride and excitement as he introduced the dishes and made small talk with guests throughout my dinner session. Those seated at the counter would likely appreciate this even more, given the opportunities to watch the team at work and ask questions about the menu.
On the flip side, the concept may seem a little heavy-handed and most things might fly over people’s heads. Even so, that wouldn’t take away from the overall experience. While some dishes naturally left a stronger impression than others, there wasn’t a course that felt out of place. After all, a good restaurant in Singapore may have a solid concept and storytelling, but the food is the ultimate decider – and Asin got it right again.
Is the second time a charm for chef Ace? I say, most definitely.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of cuisine does Asin serve?
Asin specialises in progressive Asian cuisine. The culinary team takes classic East Asian and Southeast Asian comfort flavours and elevates them using premium ingredients and contemporary cooking techniques.
Do I need to make a reservation?
Yes, reservations are highly recommended, especially for Friday dinners and weekend slots. Because of its cosy layout, seating is intimate and fills up fast.
Does Asin have private dining rooms?
There’s a private dining space near the entrance, perfect for corporate dinner meetings, intimate birthday celebrations, or family gatherings.
Is there a dress code?
The dress code is smart casual. While they won't turn you away for wearing clean sneakers, most diners dress up slightly – think collared shirts for men and chic dresses or smart separates for women. Flashing beachwear or flip-flops is discouraged.
Is parking available nearby?
While there’s limited parallel street parking along Carpenter Street and Hongkong Street, it fills up very quickly. The most reliable parking options are the multi-storey car parks at Clarke Quay Central, a short walk from the restaurant.
