Uncover restaurants, bars, and exhibitions that showcase Hong Kong’s colonial past at Tai Kwun, a buzzing cultural hub.
From the best lunch spots to the hottest happy hour deals and Hong Kong’s top clubs, Central’s thriving food and nightlife scene has something for everyone. In its midst is Tai Kwun, one of the city’s beloved heritage sites. Once the Central Police Station, it reopened in 2018 as a vibrant hub for heritage, arts, and culture. With diverse dining options, lively bars, and charming cafes, Tai Kwun has become one of most popular destinations for tourists and locals alike. Having explored its highlights and hidden gems, I’m ready to share my favourites with you! So, come along as I uncover the unique charm of Tai Kwun.
Tai Kwun, Hong Kong: A local’s guide
How to get to Tai Kwun
Getting to Tai Kwun via public transport is easy. Ride the MTR to Hong Kong Station (Tung Chung Line) and take Exit E. Walk through IFC Mall and Central Market to reach the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator. The second last exit connects directly to Tai Kwun.
Alternatively, ride the MTR to Central Station (Tsuen Wan or Island Line) and take Exit D2. Walk along Queen’s Road Central for the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator. You can also head for D’Aguilar Street. Then, take the stairs to Wyndham Street and turn right onto Hollywood Road.
From the Central Police Station to Tai Kwun
A three-in-one government building of yesteryears
Built almost at the beginning of colonial Hong Kong in 1841, Tai Kwun houses some of the oldest colonial-era buildings in the city. Initially, it served as the Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison, then the police station joined in 1864. Over the decades, the site expanded to accommodate for the growing police force as well as prison population.
During WWII, the Central Police Station sustained significant damage from Axis bombings. It was then seized by the Japanese military during the Japanese Occupation of Hong Kong. After the war, the roles of its three main entities gradually declined, leading to the decommissioning of the Central Magistracy in 1979, Central Police Station in 2004, and Victoria Prison in 2006.
Revitalisation: The conception of Tai Kwun
The Central Police Station, Victoria Prison, and Central Magistracy were listed as monuments in 1995. Talks of the site’s revitalisation came swiftly following its official closure and in 2018, Tai Kwun officially reopened. The revitalised heritage compound features three declared monuments alongside 16 historic buildings, as well as outdoor spaces for collaborative programmes, events, and performances.
Personally, I’m impressed by the thoughtful preservation of Tai Kwun’s original architecture. Gazing up from the Parade Ground, you’ll see the iconic verandahs representative of Hong Kong’s colonial architecture complete with restored, vase-shaped balusters. Another highlight is the preservation of prison cells in Halls B and D, which poignantly showcase the confined and constructed nature of prison life.
Now, who’s getting hungry after all this storytelling? Let’s dive into my list of go-to restaurants, bars, and cafes in Tai Kwun.
Tai Kwun restaurants: Where to eat
1. The Chinese Library
Taste your way across Cantonese and Chinese dishes in The Chinese Library’s opulent setting. Nestled in the former Police Headquarters Block, this Chinese restaurant artfully blends colonial architecture with distinctive Eastern design motifs – think wooden fixtures, elegant tables, and floral screens accented by stunning watercolours. It serves a curated selection of innovative regional cuisine, including plates from Shanghai, Sichuan, and Guangdong. And if you’re like me and have an appetite for dim sum, check out its Weekend Unlimited Dim Sum Brunch!
Must-try items: BBQ Pork Loin Glazed with New Zealand Manuka Honey; Sichuan Garoupa with Glass Noodles in Chili Broth; Hunan Bacon Fried Rice
How much: Appetisers from $128; mains from $198; desserts from $68
Opening hours: Mon – Fri, 12 – 3pm for lunch; Sat, Sun, and public holidays, 11am – 3:30pm for brunch; 6pm – 12am every day for dinner
Phone number: 2848 3088
Address: The Chinese Library, 1/F, Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
The Chinese Library website The Chinese Library menu
2. Cafe Claudel
Seeking a relaxed yet elegant dining experience in Tai Kwun? Check out Cafe Claudel. Paying homage to the lively Parisian cafes of the 1930s, this Tai Kwun restaurant is a social hub serving classic French food. Cafe Claudel also holds a special place among my favourite outdoor restaurants in Hong Kong. On clear days, you’ll find me settling down on the terrace for a cosy al fresco dining experience.
Must-try items: Croque Madame, Handcut Beef Tartare, Grilled Seabass
How much: Sharing starters from $98; mains from $148; desserts from $28
Opening hours: 9am – 11pm every day
Phone number: 4447 2285
Address: Cafe Claudel, Shop G08, G/F, Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
3. Prince and the Peacock
Brainchild of Chef Palash Mitra, Prince and the Peacock is an ode to the opulent beauty and rich flavours of India’s royal courts. The tropical interior is adorned with plush upholstery, Morris-esque furnishings, and lush greenery. Flip open the menu to find a curation of staples that draws from diverse regional roots. As a big fan of Indian cuisine, I appreciate Chef Mitra’s effort in bringing some of the region’s lesser-known yet equally delectable plates to local palates.
Must-try items: Tandoori Zafrani Paneer Tikka, Tandoori Murgh Ka Soola (Three Yellow Chicken leg, yellow chilies, cloves), Nalli Gosht Biryani (Lamb shank and ribs, aged basmati rice, mint)
How much: Starters from $128; mains from $178; desserts from $108
Opening hours: Mon – Sat, 6 – 11pm; Fri – Sat, 6pm – 12am
Phone number: 2154 6104
Address: Prince and the Peacock, 2/F, Block 09, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
Prince and the Peacock website Prince and the Peacock menu
4. Tozzo
Founded by renowned pastry chef Fabio Bardi, Tozzo showcases a mouth-watering array of traditional Italian sweets. A highlight is the namesake pastry, Maritozzo, a decadent treat where whipped cream is sandwiched between two sweet buns. That said, I always swap out the whipped cream for a generous filling of Tozzo’s handcrafted gelato. And if you’re in the mood for something savoury, Tozzo also does an all-day Italian-Japanese menu, curated by Chef Agustin Balbi of one-Michelin-starred Ando.
Must-try items: Maritozzo with Scrambled Eggs and Guanciale; Butter Soy Sauce Mushroom Linguine; Red Wine-Braised Beef Cheek with Broccolini and Mashed Potato
How much: Maritozzo from $40; gelato from $60; mains from $78
Opening hours: Tue – Thu and Sun, 10am – 8pm; Fri, Sat, and public holidays, 11am – 9:30pm
Whatsapp: 5729 7821
Address: Tozzo, 2/F, JC Contemporary, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
5. Magistracy Dining Room
Modelled after the sophisticated offices of the former Central Police Station, Magistracy Dining Room exudes timeless elegance and colonial charm. During my visit, the attentive staff provided top-notch service, ensuring a memorable experience for me and my guest. The menu features a selection of European classics, which are best enjoyed with a wine pairing.
Honey tip: While the Magistracy Dining Room doesn’t follow a strict dress code, I highly recommend dressing smartly for an even more immersive dining experience in this historically significant and elegant space!
Must-try items: Souffle “Arnold Bennett” (Smoked haddock with cheddar cheese veloute); Heritage Tomato Tart; Three Yellow Chicken; Shepherd’s Pie; Sticky Toffee Pudding
How much: Starters from $138; mains from $338
Opening hours: Mon – Wed, 6 – 10:30pm; Thu – Sun, 12 – 2pm, 6 – 10:30pm
Phone number: 2252 3177
Address: Magistracy Dining Room, G/F, Block 09, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
6. 1862 Bar de Tapas y Vino
Joining Tai Kwun’s ever-evolving culinary landscape in October 2024, 1862 Bar de Tapas y Vino serves a menu of no-fuss Spanish staples. Tucked away on the ground floor of Hall D, this unassuming Spanish restaurant draws you in with its eye-catching neon sign and bunker-style interior that blends modern flair with industrial chic, reminding you of the homely neighbourhood tapas bars across Spain. Whether you’re craving the flavours of Basque Country, Catalonia, or Andalusia, 1862 has a tempting selection of tapas, sharing plates, and sweet treats to satisfy your cravings.
Must-try items: 1862 Steak Tartare; 1862 Arroz de Marisco (Seafood Rice); Cochinillo (Suckling pig with pineapple and natural gravy); Pisto (La Mancha style ratatouille); Flan
How much: Small bites from $28; starters from $68; mains from $118; desserts from $48
Opening hours: 12 – 10pm every day
Phone number: 2633 1862
Address: 1862 Bar de Tapas y Vino, Shop G01, G/F, Hall D, Prison Yard, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
7. Armoury Terrace
Another hotspot for al fresco dining in Tai Kwun is Armoury Terrace, a contemporary Thai restaurant dishing up innovative classics alongside a sophisticated bar menu. When the weather is pleasant, my favourite spot is on its first floor terrace. This outdoor dining area offers a breezy setting for you to enjoy delectable Thai fare while observing the lively scene at the Parade Ground below. Beyond its excellent food, I’ve also come to appreciate Armoury’s signature cocktails, which reinterpret traditional recipes using regional ingredients from Southeast Asia.
Must-try items: Massaman Chicken Curry with Peanut and Southern Thai Spices (lunch only); Breaded Cured Pork Cakes; Beef Pad Grapow; Southside Fizz; Pandan + Lychee Daiquiri
How much: Snacks from $70; mains from $150; desserts from $55
Opening hours: 10 – 12am every day
Phone number: 9738 4979
Address: Armoury Terrace, G/F, Block 02, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
Armoury Terrace website Armoury Terrace menu
Tai Kwun bars: Where to drink
8. The Dispensary
The Dispensary is probably Tai Kwun’s worst-kept secret, known for its expertly crafted cocktails and infinitely Instagrammable interiors. Located right next to The Chinese Library, this Central bar boasts a hyper-Victorian design, where vibrant upholstery meets dark mahogany furnishings. The menu features a curated series of concoctions meticulously crafted by Dispensary’s talented bartenders. Another personal highlight is its happy hour deals, which offer buy-one-get-one-free drinks from Saturdays to Thursdays, and unlimited snacks on Fridays.
Given its intimate setting, The Dispensary can only accommodate a limited number of guests, so I highly recommend making a booking before your visit. Psst – you might find us Team Honey perched on its outdoor seats to people-watch on a Sunday afternoon!
Must-try items: Opium Old Fashioned; Deep Night; Mango Tree; “Four Blessing” Jasmine Tea-smoked Bean Curd Roll; Tiramisu, Tofu Panna Cotta
How much: Cocktails from $128; snacks from $38
Opening hours: 3pm – 12am every day
Phone number: 2848 3088
Address: The Dispensary, 1/F, Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
The Dispensary website The Dispensary menu
9. Lockcha Tea House
For tea enthusiasts, Lockcha Tea House is a must-visit. Situated on the side of the Parade Ground, this charming tea shop and bar offers a unique shopping and tasting experience. I’m a big fan of its tea house-esque interiors, which evoke the ambience of old-school Cantonese restaurants while maintaining contemporary charm.
Grab a seat by the bar and watch as experienced staff skilfully prepare your brew. Our other editor frequents Lockcha for happy hour – best enjoyed with a big group of friends on the outdoor terrace. And if you’d like to take home some premium leaves, don’t forget to browse through Lockcha’s tea shop after trying its one-of-a-kind vegetarian dim sum.
Must-try items: Deep-fried Plant-based Beef Tofu Puff; Soy Sauce Fried Egg Noodles with Mushroom and Bean Sprout; Black Truffle Vegetarian Siu Mai; Oolong Illusion
How much: Cantonese soup from $22; dim sum from $32; mains from $48; tea cocktails from $118
Opening hours: Sun – Thu, 11am – 10pm; Fri – Sat, 11am – 11:30pm
Phone number: 2276 5777
Address: Lockcha Tea House, Shop G07, G/F, Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
10. 001
Tucked away on the first floor of Hall C, this inconspicuous hideout offers a relaxed yet luxurious atmosphere to sip a glass or two. While unpretentious, 001’s cocktail menu is noteworthy for its careful balance of bold flavours and reserved presentation. If you’re seeking a chic bar to unwind after dinner or start your night slow, this speakeasy has you covered.
Must-try items: Earl Grey Martini; Guadalupe; What We Do in the Shadows
How much: Cocktails from $158
Opening hours: Sun – Thu, 5pm – 12am; Fri – Sat, 5pm – 1am
Phone number: 2810 6969
Address: 001, Shop 101, 1/F, Superintendent’s House and Hall C, Blocks 10 and 13, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
Tai Kwun exhibitions: Heritage and the arts
11. Heritage exhibitions
Tai Kwun’s permanent exhibitions offer insightful and often immersive experiences of the compound’s rich history and heritage. Spanning across the site, these heritage displays allow you to learn about daily life in Tai Kwun for officers and prisoners alike.
Victoria Prison: B Hall & D Hall details inmates’ lives in the former prison complex. Through multimedia installations in two sets of preserved prison cells, the exhibition showcases the discrimination and punishment experienced by those incarcerated in Victoria Prison before its closure in 2004. I found the interview with rehabilitated inmates at the end of Hall B particularly impactful, highlighting the diverse forms of hardship endured.
Added recently in late 2024 to Tai Kwun’s range of permanent exhibitions is Central Magistracy, a two-part exploration of Hong Kong’s judicial system from conception to present day. This exhibition showcases archival materials, restored holding cells, and the preserved courtroom. A striking feature for me is the staircase leading from the gallows below to the courtroom above, a path once frequented by prisoners facing trial.
How much: Free admission
Opening hours: 11am – 7pm every day
Address: LG1/F and G/F, Central Magistracy Block 09 and B Hall & D Hall, Blocks 12 and 14, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
12. Contemporary art
The main venue for contemporary art exhibitions in Tai Kwun is JC Contemporary. While displays rotate seasonally, you can expect to see rising talents in the visual, performance, and digital arts exhibiting here throughout the year.
One past favourite of mine was Green Snake: Women-centred Ecologies from March 2024. This thought-provoking exhibition engaged artists from different countries in a dialogue about global warming and climate change. Artworks confront our current climate crisis while imagining alternative futures by drawing on different mythologies and worldviews.
Also, I highly recommend keeping an eye out for installations taking place in Hall F! During a visit, I stumbled upon the multichannel installation DigiRadiance: Gold_Lead_Wood_Coal which quickly became one of my all-time favourite pieces. Be sure to check out Tai Kwun’s calendar for current and upcoming contemporary art exhibitions.
13. Special exhibitions
Tai Kwun also stages limited-time exhibitions at Block 01’s Duplex Studio from time to time. A personal favourite is the 2022 Gender & Space exhibition, which uncovers hidden female voices of the Central Police Station. I was struck by how the curators drew on poignant personal accounts from sex workers, female prison staff, and wives of officers and superintendents to highlight the hypocrisy of the early judicial system. While the physical exhibition is no longer running, you can still access its digital portal to learn more about these hidden histories.
Which heritage building should I explore next? DM @honeycombershk on Instagram or drop me an email at [email protected].
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is Tai Kwun and why is it significant in Hong Kong?
Tai Kwun, meaning “Big Station” in Cantonese, is a restored historical complex that served as Hong Kong's Central Police Station, Central Magistracy, and Victoria Prison. Its significance lies in its rich history, spanning over 170 years during the colonial and post-colonial eras. Today, it is a hub for dining, culture, and arts.
What can I see and do at Tai Kwun?
Tai Kwun offers a wide range of activities and attractions for visitors. You can explore heritage buildings, visit art exhibitions, dine at restaurants and bars, shop at curated boutiques, attend events and performances, and learn about history and heritage.
What are the opening hours and how do I get to Tai Kwun?
Tai Kwun opens daily from 10am to 11pm, with varying opening hours for individual shops and restaurants. Admission to permanent exhibitions and outdoor areas is free. To get to Tai Kwun, take the MTR to Central Station (Exit D2) or Hong Kong Station (Exit E). Walk 10 to 15 minutes uphill through D’Aguilar Street or the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator.
