What do you know about Borneo cuisine? Kantin at Jewel Changi Airport is the first restaurant in Singapore to serve authentic Bornean dishes with a modern twist.
You’ve earned bragging rights when you’re the first business in Singapore to offer something new or different. From the first Malay fine dining restaurant to the bakery that introduced the crookie to the masses – we’ve seen a fair share. What if you’re the only establishment in our burgeoning culinary scene to offer authentic Bornean cuisine? That’s what you get with Kantin at Jewel Changi Airport.
Welcome to the jungle
Hailing from Sarawak, Kantin is the brainchild of a creative media team based in the Malaysian state. Since opening its doors in 2021, the restaurant has received a positive buzz, with most raving about the food. After two years, the brand decided to venture overseas, marking Singapore as its first destination. The idea is to spread Borneo’s rich cultural heritage globally, and what better way to do that than through food? Plus, setting up the restaurant at Changi Airport, our gateway to overseas adventures, makes perfect sense.
Taking over Rumours Bar & Grill’s former premises, Kantin at Jewel Changi Airport gives off major Survivor chic vibes with its tribal motifs, lush greenery, and rattan furniture. I’m not sure why I was expecting a walled-in restaurant before my visit since the entirety of Jewel’s fifth storey operates like an open concept. My guests and I arrived at nighttime, and the natural lighting at the restaurant was like a paid actor. It truly felt like we were having a meal in the rainforest minus the mosquitoes, wildlife, and potential sudden downpours.
Let’s dine with the headhunters, shall we?
It’d be a lie to say my posse and I weren’t looking forward to the food. We were positively famished, and we couldn’t wait to dig into the feast. Kantin’s menu boasts Bornean delights that you can’t get anywhere else in Singapore. Of course, creative liberties are taken here, but that doesn’t detract from the restaurant’s noble intentions.
Our eyes immediately lit up when the Headhunter Pansuh set ($32) arrived. If only you could hear our gasps! The main dish in the set is Bornean pansuh chicken, which combines poultry with wild vegetables such as bunga kantan (torch ginger flower), tapioca leaves, and lemongrass. It’s served in a dish that looks like a bamboo shoot. The broth is light yet flavoursome – we kept slurping it up – while the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender.
The pansuh chicken is accompanied by purple rice, keropok lekor (fish crackers), and two classic Dayak side dishes that alternate daily. That night, we got to sample the umai jellyfish dressed in Melanau sauce and pusu bawang (garlic paste). Unsure about trying the jellyfish? Well, perish the thought! It’s nicely cooked and absorbs the sauce’s flavours – think of it as eating konjac noodles. Personally, I enjoyed the latter side dish. The anchovies have a good crunch with spice thanks to the sauteed onion, chillies, and torch ginger flower.
Those who have a love-hate relationship with squid will change their mind after digging into the Sotong Bakar ($18). No rubbery texture to contend here – only succulent squid drowned in sweet and smokey dark gravy. You can savour this dish on its own, though we recommend having it with rice.
Must-try signatures that elevate the dining experience
Everyone’s familiar with laksa, but you’ve not lived until you’ve tried Sarawak laksa, aka “breakfast of the gods”. Kantin’s rendition ($18) is a bowl of fragrant coconut milk broth that’s surprisingly light on the palate. The noodles didn’t turn soggy even after being in the soup for some time, and you get a significant amount of prawns and chicken. Everything marries well together and gets the thumbs up from us.
Rice may not be my favourite carb, but I did enjoy the Rainforest Fried Rice ($18). The herbs used in the dish lend a nice, earthy flavour, while the tapioca leaves and crispy Shiitake mushrooms provide a crunchy yet healthy touch. Don’t pass up on the cauliflower nuggets which are served with the fried rice. We reckon they’re the perfect veggie substitute if you have little ones at the table.
If you think the protein fest ends here, think again. The Salmon Island ($28) is a hearty bowl filled with Atlantic salmon, mashed potato, vegetables, and creamy tomato soup. The salmon skin is seared to a beautiful golden brown while the meat retains its tenderness. Our table thoroughly enjoyed this dish – we kept fighting over the last bite!
Wash everything down with the restaurant’s selection of signature drinks. Caffeine aficionados will enjoy the Kantin Kaffeine ($10) and Sarawak Teh C Special ($10). The latter, famously known as the three-layer tea, contains gula apong syrup (similar to palm sugar) and tastes like creme brulee. Those who prefer something zestier should go for the Three Sour Crush ($12), an ice blend of lemon, calamansi, and sour plum. Remember Solero ice cream? We unanimously agree the drink reminds us of the cold treat, except here it’s all melted in a tall glass. Perfect for a hot day in Singapore, we say.
A fitful feast for everyone
It’s not truly over until dessert is served, and towards the end of our meal, Emily Yii, the restaurant’s “minister of good food”, comes over with… a dirty plate? Relax, we’re not forced to wash the restaurant’s dirty dishes. She dives into a spirited spiel about how Borneo people eat everything, including a “sponge”. Yes, we had to do a double-take. It’s that convincing!
The literal sponge cake is made of lemon butter cake with English orange marmalade, lime foam, and pandan lime syrup. We love the punchy citrus flavours, which are balanced with the pandan. Overall, it’s a dessert that even non-sweet tooths can lap up. This special gimmick is only available for a limited time (we’re told it’ll be properly cleaned up after this month).
As my group winds down after the fitful feast, I ask for everyone’s favourites. Tbh, we couldn’t collectively decide on what we liked. We appreciate the nuttiness of the fried rice, the crispy yet tender salmon, and the lightness of the laksa. As for me, I didn’t have a particular preference. The one that really stole my heart is the lepa sauce (not inspired by the singer, obvi). It’s spicy, has a good kick, and goes well with everything. If I decide to return to Kantin at Jewel Changi Airport, I’ll be sure to bottle all the sauces secretly.
Kantin, #05-206/207, Jewel Changi Airport, 78 Airport Boulevard, Singapore 819666
