Consommé in a glass, cheese with beets, seafood with kiwi… Abura Kappo is a restaurant-in-a-restaurant with a smorgasbord of surprises.
It’s a Japanese restaurant decked out in understated earthy hues, tucked away along the busy Amoy Street. But you won’t spot it from the streets – you’ll have to head inside Hashida Singapore to discover Abura Kappo, a restaurant hidden inside a restaurant. The space looks zen, structured with typical omakase seating where diners watch as the chef whips up each morsel.
Hashida has been running for the past 11 years in Singapore, and just a few months ago, Chef Kenjiro “Hatch” Hashida launched the restaurant-in-a-restaurant concept that is Abura Kappo. What makes this Japanese dining experience stand out – aside from its moreish courses – are the quirks that reflect the chef’s diverse interests. Think: vibrant menu designs created by the man behind the restaurant (he was once keen on a career in art and design), and an eclectic Spotify playlist that is unique to this compact space (put together by the chef himself). Chef Hashida isn’t on duty every night as he shuttles between Singapore and Japan, but his well-trained chefs promise a delectable meal and an entertaining time.
How does the food stack up? The menu is said to be bound by the element of oil (or abura), an essential but not frequently highlighted ingredient in cooking. The varied use of exquisite oils comes across in Abura Kappo’s courses in a subtle way that elevates, but doesn’t outshine each ingredient it’s combined with – from the grease-free tempura to the aromatic spring onion oil in its broths. Take a peek at the highlights of its extensive 13-course menu…
Say cheese… with beets and kinome leaf
The gastronomy begins with a series of delicate, photo-worthy bites that marry unexpected flavours. Take, for instance, the Monaka (pictured top), featuring creamy egg custard steamed with Danish blue cheese (don’t worry, it wasn’t overpowering), umami-rich mushroom sauce, and 30-month-aged Comté cheese sandwiched between crispy monaka wafers. Topped with spheres of beetroot and daikon, this pretty morsel juxtaposes sweet and refreshing ingredients with the savoury.
The Camembert is another one for the cheese lover. The richness of Camembert cheese is complemented by the citrusy and minty fragrance of the kinome leaf, fried in tempura batter for a delightful crunch. Sprinkle black pepper, sansho leaf powder and sansho pepper to your fancy and enjoy.
Carpaccio with raw yellowtail and squid is served in between these cheesy bites, providing a taste of the ocean elevated with pickled dashi sauce and Hashida’s special gin salt – created in collaboration with Tanglin Gin.
Sip and savour: Consommé pairings
Wine and dine? How about consommé and dine, ‘cos instead of vino, Abura Kappo serves tuna consommé in a wine glass, with a few drops of spring onion oil that the chef delicately drops in with a pipette. Give it a good swirl and resist the urge to down it all at once. Made with a medley of ingredients (including bluefin tuna, leek and carrots) and simmered for four hours, this cold consommé is meant to be sipped alongside the next two dishes.
The Managatsuo boasts the crispy goodness of Japanese silver pomfret, coated in tempura batter and deep-fried to golden perfection, served with tempura sauce and house-made onion sauce for your choosing (we loved the latter). Pair it with the consommé for the natural sweetness of the fish to shine through.
Follow that up with the ebi toast. Expect a bite reminiscent of Hong Kong prawn toast, made with Japanese flair. House-made tamagoyaki and prawn paste are fried with toast, providing a satisfying mouthful that’s crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. The final sip of tuna consommé is a refreshing palate cleanser that cuts through any heaviness.
Fruity condiments meet savoury eats
The chef’s penchant for mixing the saccharine and salty takes centre stage in the upcoming courses. There’s fried Hokkaido Tokachi wagyu topped with balsamic vinegar and pomegranate sauce; as well as hotaru ika salad with seafood and a tangy kiwi sauce. Each dish presents a melange of colours and textures, with flavour combinations that deliver like a dream.
Mid-meal interludes
Don’t let the minimalist decor fool you – this restaurant has more character than you’d think. The mid-meal break is marked by the emergence of a print-out designed to look like those missing pet flyers at local void decks, asking if anyone has seen the chef’s fish. (The number actually works: call and you’ll be booking your next seat for this 13-course meal.)
A surprisingly eclectic playlist and other jovial antics make for a delightfully entertaining time. Gimmicky? Perhaps. But fun? Absolutely.
A whirlwind spin on Japanese classics
We think the next few plates were a masterclass in shaking up well-known Japanese classics with contemporary flair. In a cross between Mexican and Japanese influences, the soft soba taco takes typical sukiyaki nosh for a spin, with wagyu menchi katsu, tofu emulsion, shungiku sauce, and a drizzle of Japanese raw egg yolk.
You know oden as a stew, but here, it’s presented as tempura. And the broth? Hidden within the fried daikon and amela tomato slices. Each ingredient is simmered in dashi broth before being battered and fried. Sink your teeth in for a burst of flavour from the dashi that’s steeped into each morsel, complete with the satisfying crunch of the tempura batter.
The donabe is a mouthwatering finale to wrap up the series of savoury dishes. From donabe rice to prawn tempura to julienned kimbap veggies and more, the ingredients are laid out separately for a do-it-yourself experience.
Pick up a piece of Korean seaweed and roll it all up like a kimbap, make your own maki, or mix them up with your bowl of rice – this interactive dish is delectable however you enjoy it. The flavours are clean, mellow, and sublime.
Dessert doesn’t disappoint
Who would’ve thought mushrooms, chilli oil, matcha and persimmons would make a pleasing sweet treat? The succession of unexpected ingredient combinations continues with the last course. Shiitake chocolate is paired with vanilla ice cream, finished with mushroom chocolate shavings and a dash of chilli oil, and served with Japanese dried persimmon stuffed with matcha ice cream. For such a unique dessert, you’d think that it’s an acquired taste. But no, the flavours were surprisingly mild and tantalisingly harmonious.
We won’t spoil the entire menu. But one thing’s for sure: this hidden restaurant-in-a-restaurant offers much more than just your standard Japanese fare. It’s a culinary journey that’s laid-back yet entertaining, unexpected yet delicious. At $200++ per pax, it’s certainly not your everyday meal, but it’s worth booking if you want to turn your next special occasion meal into an unforgettable one.
Abura Kappo, Hashida, 77 Amoy Street, Singapore 069896
