Escape the crowds and head north to Pemuteran - a quiet village surrounded by ocean, towering mountains & Bali's famous National Park...
If you’ve never heard of Pemuteran – that’s exactly why you need to visit. It’s the calm and ever-peaceful coastal neighbourhood that was once an undiscovered traditional fishing village. It’s off-the-beaten path, which means it’s still lesser known, draws only a handful of tourists, and is nestled between calm ocean, majestic mountain tops, and the West Bali National Park.
Pemuteran is also the best base for exploring Menjangan Island’s coral reefs, and one of the few places in Bali where tall green mountains rise sharply behind local villages. In front of you: calm, flat, crystal-clear water – no surf, no waves, no traffic chaos. Just great diving, dolphin-watching trips at dawn, and laid-back island life that’s increasingly hard to find here.
Why trust this guide
I’m Louise, editor of Honeycombers Bali, and I’ve lived here full-time for 13 years. I travel to Pemuteran regularly – it’s one of the corners of Bali I keep coming back to, which is saying something when you’ve explored as much of this island as I have. When I write about Pemuteran, it’s because I know it’s worth the drive. You’ll find my honest take throughout: the good, the not-so-good, and the things I wish someone had told me before my first visit.
Where is Pemuteran?
Pemuteran is a small coastal village in the far northwest corner of Bali, sitting in the Buleleng Regency. It borders the West Bali National Park to the west and faces the Bali Sea to the north, with the Prapat Agung Peninsula and Menjangan Island visible from the shore.
The name “Pemuteran” is said to mean “come back to you” — fitting for a place people tend to return to. It was originally a traditional fishing village, home to around 8,000 people, with most residents being fishermen relocated from a village called Seraya after the catastrophic 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung in East Bali.
It’s a small community in every sense. There’s one main road, a handful of restaurants, a few hotels, and almost no nightlife. Which is, of course, entirely the point.
Why visit Pemuteran?
- It’s the gateway to Menjangan Island. The diving and snorkelling at Menjangan (part of the West Bali National Park) is some of the best in Bali, with clear water, great visibility, decent drop-offs and coral in good condition. Most trips depart from Pemuteran, making it the most logical base.
- No surf, no crowds. The bay is protected and calm, which means flat water year-round. This isn’t a surf destination – it’s for people who want to be in the ocean, not watching it from a sun lounger at a beach club.
- The landscape is breathtaking. Lush green mountains directly behind the village, calm sea directly in front. It’s the best of both: you can hike in the morning and snorkel in the afternoon.
- It hasn’t been overrun. Pemuteran sits far enough from the south of Bali to have avoided the mass tourism that’s transformed places like Canggu and Seminyak. The community is small enough that when you order a food delivery, there’s no Gojek. Instead, restaurants send your food in reusable bento boxes and containers, and collect them afterwards. That level of community-minded sustainability tells you a lot about this place!
How to get to Pemuteran
Private driver is the only sensible option. There are no rideshare apps operating in northwest Bali (no Grab or Gojek), and no reliable shuttle service from the south. Getting to Pemuteran means booking a private driver, which is straightforward and worth your Rupiah.
A word on the drive itself: depending on which route you take, you’ll be winding up through the mountains, sometimes on narrow roads with sheer drops and limited visibility in the afternoon (it gets foggy when the clouds come in). It can be a really challenging (and sometimes scary) drive. I’d recommend an experienced local driver, especially if you’re coming from the south for the first time. If you do want to self-drive with a hire car, only do it in good conditions, and if you’re confident on Bali roads (with the correct licence).
Approximate drive times to Pemuteran:
Munduk: 1 to 1.5 hours
Canggu: 3 to 3.5 hours
Ubud: 3 to 3.5 hours
Seminyak: 3.5 hours to 4 hours
Sanur: 3.5 to 4 hours
Amed: 3.5 to 4 hours
Sidemen: 4 to 4.5 hours
Uluwatu: 4.5 to 5 hours
Two main routes from South Bali:
Via Bedugul and Munduk – the most scenic option, taking you through mountain lakes and rice terraces. It’s a little longer, but the roads are wide and beautiful, and a great way to break the journey with a stop in Munduk.
Via Pupuan – slightly more direct from the west coast, but winding through coffee plantations and quieter roads.
Pemuteran is best for:
Divers and snorkellers – Menjangan Island is the main draw.
Couples and families – it’s quiet, peaceful, and ocean swims are much safer since there are no waves.
Adventure travellers – this is the less-visited, more authentic side of Bali, and a good stop before travelling to Java.
One thing worth knowing before you arrive: while Bali is majority Hindu, Pemuteran has a mixed Hindu and Muslim community, so you may hear the call to prayer from a nearby mosque, particularly if you visit during Ramadan. I find it one of the more interesting aspects of the village, but it’s something to be aware of so it doesn’t catch you off guard at 4am (bring earplugs!).
WHERE TO STAY IN PEMUTERAN
1. Taman Sari Resort
The only resort in Pemuteran with its own white-sand beach, Taman Sari is the most complete option in the area – and it sits right in front of Bali’s award-winning Bio-Rock coral restoration project, which you can snorkel over without even getting in a boat. \
The six enclosed tropical pool villas are the standout accommodation: private garden courtyards, sky showers, daybeds, mountain-view ponds and kitchenettes. For smaller budgets, there are also suites and rustic bungalows. There’s a beachfront restaurant, a bar positioned perfectly for sunset, and spa treatments you can have poolside while keeping an eye on the kids.
Best for: Families, couples, anyone wanting a beachside base with a real Pemuteran feel.
Local tip: Go for a sunrise snorkel over the Bio-Rock before the day-trippers arrive – it’s one of the best things to do in north Bali.
Good to know: The white-sand beach is a rarity in Pemuteran, as most of the shoreline is darker volcanic sand.
Taman Sari Resort, Pemuteran Dusun Pemuteran, Gerokgak, Pemuteran, p. +62 853 3828 3069, e. reservation@tamansaribali.com
2. Sumberkima Hill
A short drive west of Pemuteran up into the hills, Sumberkima Hill is a private villa retreat with views across the Bali Sea, the volcanic peaks of Java, and the West Bali National Park. You’ll feel far away from everything – because you are. Two restaurants, Suma and Senja, focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. There’s also a yoga shala and a full spa menu with massage and flower baths.
Best for: Couples, families, anyone wanting to feel off-grid without sacrificing on comfort.
Local tip: The sunset views from the hillside here are exceptional – clearer and more dramatic than what you get from sea level in the village.
Good to know: The uphill location means it’s a drive into Pemuteran village – factor that in if you want to explore the coastline every day.
Sumberkima Hill, Taman Ayun, Desa Sumberkima, p. +62 812 8212 9211, e. sumberkimahill@gmail.com.
3. Puri Ganesha Homes by the Beach
Puri Ganesha Homes by the Beach are four individually and tastefully designed private houses that use Indonesian antiques and fabrics – situated right by the beach. The master bedrooms command stunning sea views and spacious garden bathrooms with cool terracotta floors.
Chill poolside by day, snorkel over lunch, and bliss out with a therapeutic day-bed massage. And to feed your tummy as well as your soul, Puri Ganesha prides itself on being a member of Slow Food Bali, so rest assured that every effort has been taken to use only organic and local ingredients on its menus. No red meat here, only simple, fresh and seasonal chicken, seafood, salads and vegetable dishes served up in the houses, dining pavilions, petit beachfront restaurant or by request on the beach by torchlight.
This is a gourmet paradise for vegetarians and vegans who want to taste the unique flavours of the north.
Puri Ganesha Homes by the Beach, Desa Pemuteran, Gerokgak, p. +62 8123 932 984, e. diana@puriganesha.com.
WHERE TO EAT IN PEMUTERAN
1. The Sage Bali
A vibrant vegan cafe that’s as green as its natural surroundings, The Sage Bali dishes up a whole menu full of wholesome creations. Start the day with artisanal organic coffee straight from Kintamani, then when you’re in the mood to munch, try the Got the Munchies – two whole grain rolls with hummus, tomato relish and mixed olives. Or, get a taste of the Too Good to be True burger with a hearty vegan patty of kidney beans, quinoa and sunflower seeds. There’s even a Whizz Kids menu for little ones too!
The Sage Bali, Jl Singaraja-Gilimanuk, Pemuteran, p. +62 881 0371 02478, e. thesagebali@gmail.com; Open Tue – Sun 12pm – 9pm.
2. La Casa Kita
A small family-run Italian restaurant in the heart of Pemuteran, La Casa Kita serves up a variety of Western and Indonesian favourites, not forgetting the only wood-fired oven in town. Drool-worthy thin crust pizzas anyone? Delivery is also available, as is open-air seating set amongst a well-groomed lawn. The bar offers cold beer and wine options as well as plenty of non-alcoholic drinks.
La Casa Kita, Jl Raya Gilimanuk-Seririt, Pemuteran, p. +62 821 4703 9333; Open daily 2pm – 11pm.
3. Warung Setia
This local roadside shack is always heaving with passers-by and anyone in the Pemuteran culinary know! Warung Setia offers classic Indonesian and Asian dishes (hello Nasi Goreng and Prawn Pad Thai) as well as all your western favourites, awesome fresh salads, sushi, a great selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes – even gluten-free options too. If you don’t mind a wait or a little roadside noise, then this is the place to plonk down and take your time for fresh, local fare for just a few dollars.
Warung Setia, Jl Seririt, Gilimanuk, Pemuteran, p. +62 852 3831 1212; Open daily 11am – 11pm.
4. Warung Kadek Merry
This small Balinese Warung serves up their very special brand of Indonesian and Balinese fare with a smile. Seafood is bought daily from the local traditional market or the village fishermen, t0 create fresh dishes like grilled calamari or tuna, mixed seafood curry and even sashimi – or perhaps vegan curry is more your style. It’s all catered for here with a focus on fresh local ingredients to assure top-notch food quality at reasonable prices. There’s even a free shuttle pick-up service around the Pemuteran area. Double win!
Warung Kadek Merry, Jl Raya Seririt Gilimanuk, Pemuteran p. +62 819 3644 1881, e. warungkadekmerry@gmail.com; Open daily 11am – 10pm.
THINGS TO DO IN PEMUTERAN
1. Explore the deep blue sea
For both experienced and beginner snorkelers or divers, there really is no better way to pass the day in Pemuteran than checking out some of Bali’s most vibrant coral reefs. Menjangan (Deer) Island is famed for hectares of stunning coral reef, great drop-offs, light currents and ideal water temperatures and visibility. The indigenous tropical fish here are abundant and if you’re very lucky, you may catch manta rays and whale sharks too.
There are plenty of diving companies nearby who will arrange pick-up and drop-off with lunch, equipment and national park fees included, but if you’re a diver, we’d suggest the five-star PADI-recognised Blue Corner Dive Centre or Bali Diving Academy. And if you don’t fancy a day on the open seas? Stick to the shoreline and check out the award-winning Bio-Rock coral restoration project, located directly in front of Taman Sari Resort. Or, don’t get wet at all and just head out for a morning of dolphin watching.
2. Visit a Buddhist Monastery and Bali’s Hot Springs
Have your concierge organise a tour to Brahma Arama Vihara Buddhist Monastery (known as the biggest Buddhist temple in Bali) in Banjar North Bali – a one-hour car drive east of Pemuteran. This active Monastery is much more than just a tourist attraction and there is a working Ashram located close by. The Monastery provides a breathtaking view in serene and peaceful surroundings, with dramatic domes and architecture inspired by the famous Borobudur temple in Java.
While you’re in the area, why not check out the Banjar Hot Springs too, just ten minutes from the Monastery. These springs, set in a beautiful flowered garden, were made by Japanese Colonists hundreds of years ago and built with bathing in mind, also used for their special healing properties thanks to the Brimstone in the water. You can choose to relax in one of three baths, where a good soak in 38ºC sulphur water will eliminate any hint of tired aching muscles. Top tip: steer clear on Balinese holidays as it can get very crowded…
3. Surrender to spa treatments and yoga
Pemuteran is home to many uniquely traditional spa facilities offering the essence of regional wellness. Many of the bigger hotels are home to fabulous spas, with some offering daily morning yoga sessions, as well as a stunning selection of traditional Balinese healing treatments. Our favourite is the hillside yoga shala and spa at Sumberkima Hill where you can truly unwind with a massage and a luxurious flower bath. There is also a drop-in yoga class here located in the Shala, which has the most breathtaking views of Pemuteran.
4. Take a hike
Take a guided trek through the West Bali National Park and get back-to-nature with an experienced national park guide who can point-out local flora and fauna, some 175 species of plants, 14 of which are endangered species like Bayur, Ketangi, Sonokeling, and Burahol Cendana (or sandalwood). Check out sunset or moon rise at the top of the Beratan Mountain, where you can see a stunning ocean and mountain forest views as well as a splendid sunset over the volcanoes of East Java.
During the full moon period (2 days before and after), it is possible to see the sun setting and full moon rising at the same time. And if you’re really into your hiking, make an overnight trip to Ijen – the ‘Green Crater’ in Eastern Java with a one-kilometer-wide turquoise-coloured acid crater lake and active sulphur mine. It takes an overnight trip to get there, but the experience is certainly worth the trek.
5. Tour a trio of temples
Organise a temple tour through any number of well-known tour companies to visit three well-known temples in the area of Pemuteran. The Pulaki, Pabean and Segara Temples are perfectly nestled between mountain and sea. Pura Pulaki is the main temple for Pemuteran, backing up against the hills and home to the legendary guardians, a friendly pack of grey macaque monkeys.
Then, across the road on grounds bordered by the ocean is Pura Pabean, a temple exhibiting an unusual style of Balinese and Chinese decoration. It is not uncommon to see local fishermen praying for safe journeys and good yields here. You’ll then discover at the foot of Pura Pabean, next to the sea, is the much older temple and much more basic Pura Segara temple. And psst… don’t forget to wear a sarong or scarf in order to enter any of the temple areas.