Hawkins Road may not exist anymore, but this former refugee camp is steeped in history. Here’s where you can find bits of it.
A road that no longer exists, which once housed a Vietnamese refugee camp? Never did I think I’d stumble upon something like that in Singapore’s history. But true enough, when I did a Google Maps search, nothing came up. It piqued my interest the same way Kampong Lorong Buangkok did, and I wanted to see if anything remained. Luckily for me, local tour guide Uncle Chris just created his Hawkins Road trail (the only one of its kind), so I snapped up a spot.
The search for Hawkins Road
I was more bleary-eyed than excited as I made my way to the north. The walking tour group meets at Sembawang MRT, where Uncle Chris introduces himself and talks about how he’s been hosting tours since 2018. Spry for a 71-year-old, he’s passionate about what he does for a living. Having lived in Sembawang for years, he’s spent a big chunk of his time learning about the Vietnam War. So, it was only natural for him to create a tour of Hawkins Road and its history.
As we disembark from the bus (which almost didn’t stop because people rarely use the View Road bus stop), Uncle Chris is eager to start the tour. He swiftly pulls out pictures from his bag to show us what the area used to look like and speaks rapidly. With disjointed stories and random bits of information cobbled together, I can say that what he lacks in storytelling capabilities, he makes up for in enthusiasm.
Hawkins Road: A former home to Vietnamese refugees
Hawkins Road was nestled within Sembawang, a neighbourhood rich in military history. It started as a multitude of plantations before transforming into one of the significant British naval bases. The area was even a target of aerial bombing raids at the time of the Japanese occupation.
After the Vietnam War and the fall of Saigon, Uncle Chris tells us of the devastation people felt. Desperate for refuge, some refugees packed into overcrowded boats even leapt into the water, hoping to be rescued first as they approached neighbouring countries like Hong Kong and Malaysia. Those who made it to Singapore were offered fuel, food, and water before being sent back out to sea.
Hawkins Road served as home to many Vietnamese refugees for almost 20 years. You’d think this was aeons in the past. Colour me surprised when I discovered the refugee camp was only shut down in 1996, a little over 30 years ago. You’d think something this significant would have made it to our history textbooks, but I can’t recall a whisper about it.
Life at Hawkins Road
After walking upwards along View Road, we pause at a fence. Nothing out of the ordinary, just a restricted area I wouldn’t think twice about. Then, Uncle Chris reveals why we stopped here – the fence marks the camp’s former front gate. Cue the oohs and aahs from us. I’m surprised there’s any indication of the camp left at all.
He whips out a picture depicting refugees waiting to leave the camp – they were only allowed out after 12pm every day. “But where would they go?” asked one of the attendees.
Uncle Chris tells us most people left the site to work for extra money. Other times, they frequented the now-defunct Chong Pang area, which became a Little Vietnam. Although the mall no longer exists, archives recount it as a bustling neighbourhood, with stores selling French-made crockery, household products, and more. The community between locals and refugees grew so close, there’s even a Facebook group for everyone to keep in touch.
Through a split in the fence, I venture a little further. My search didn’t reveal much, but it gave me a moment to visualise a map I found from the Vietnamese Heritage Museum before the tour. It’s hard to believe that all this forest was once equipped with a clinic, school, office, soccer field, and even a church.
At its peak, Uncle Chris said almost 3,300 people occupied Hawkins Road. A cramped situation would be an understatement. However, despite the simple way of life, the community was rich and spirited. They even created their own magazine to tell the stories of their lives. You can find it in the National Library Board’s archives!
The closure of Hawkins Road and unanswered questions
According to the archives, once political tensions eased up, the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) shut down all the camps in the region, including Hawkins Road. The repatriation of the remaining 100 Vietnamese refugees marked the end of this particular saga in Singapore’s history. A big question I had: why aren’t there wider discussions about this?
Uncle Chris speculates that Hawkins Road’s story is kept under wraps because of the shame from turning refugees away. But I don’t think that’s the main reason.
This period in Singapore’s history was so significant that the challenges shaped our refugee laws. And yet, I don’t remember being taught this in school. I wonder, is it because it didn’t matter as much as Singapore’s incredible growth as a nation? As someone who always questions the status quo, I presume Hawkins Road doesn’t fit into the perfectly tweezed and plucked narrative of Singapore’s development.
So, what’s happening to View Road?
At the final part of our short trek, we come face to face with a bigger gate hiding the only building left in the area – View Road Hospital. Uncle Chris tells us it used to serve as a mental institution and then a dormitory until 2011. Remarkably, it remains standing to this day. However, like many aspects of Singapore’s past, it probably won’t be for long.
As part of the Woodlands Regional Centre’s development, another transformation is on the horizon. I deduce from the Urban Redevelopment Authority’s maps and plans that View Road and the land around it will become housing developments as part of Woodlands North Coast.
Soon, even this crumb of Hawkins Road will disappear under rapidly assembled BTOs and beautifully manicured parks. But sacrificing parts of history for progress comes with being a developed nation that has little land to spare.
The thought of Hawkins Road still haunts me as I write this, weeks after the tour. Why didn’t I know anything about it before? How did my older relatives not hear about this? And why isn’t this something we talk about more often?
I may never get all the answers to my questions. But I know this: as long as there are history enthusiasts and curious wanderers like Uncle Chris, the story of Hawkins Road is not entirely lost.
How to get there
By train: Take the Thomson-East Coast Line to Woodlands North and walk 20 minutes.
By bus: From Sembawang MRT station, walk to the bus stop (ID: 58151) and take 856 to View Road (ID: 47201). The ride is 30 minutes long.
By private hire or taxi: You can get dropped off at View Road, but pickups may be challenging when you want to leave.
By car or motorcycle: We don’t recommend this as there aren’t any parking places nearby. If you drive, you can park along View Road without disrupting traffic, but don’t loiter for too long.
My tips for visiting Hawkins Road
Book your spot in Uncle Chris’s tour: Uncle Chris is the only person hosting a tour about Hawkins Road. Sign up is free via his Eventbrite page, and if you don’t see the tour available, ask him about it!
Bring cash to tip: Uncle Chris follows the practice of tipping at the end of the tour, and cash is preferred.
Make sure you drink tons of water: Even though we were out in the early morning, the sun was beating down. Make sure you stay hydrated throughout the tour or your own exploration.
Remember to apply sunscreen and mosquito repellent: The forested area is infested with insects and unsheltered. This helps avoid sunburn and mozzie bites.
Save the map from the Vietnamese Heritage Museum: The map helps with visualising where exactly you are and where the refugee camp used to be. It definitely adds to the experience!
