Winner of the 2020 Redress Design Award for the menswear category, Le Ngoc Ha Thu is back again with a new sustainable fashion design piece
When it comes to sustainable fashion, Hong Kong is fortunate that many talented creators and innovators call The 852 home. Just to start, examples include the change makers featured in the reFashioned documentary, Sarah Garner’s circular fashion business Retykle, and Julia Washbourne’s eco-friendly Bamboa, not to mention many others. But, first and foremost, you can’t talk about sustainable fashion in Hong Kong, without talking about Redress, the environmental NGO founded by Christina Dean to reduce waste in the fashion industry.
Not only is Redress working to minimise the negative environmental impacts of fashion, but the NGO is also dedicated to promoting innovative new business models and driving growth towards a more sustainable industry via the circular economy. A key feature of this mission is the Redress Design Awards. The Design Awards are a unique opportunity for aspiring designers around the world to participate and compete for the chance to win HK$50,000 (US$6,400) and an opportunity to collaborate with the VF Corporation.
The 2022 Redress Design Award applications are open now until 16 March. “This is a standout opportunity for the Redress Design Award 2022 winning designer to collaborate with Timberland, one of the world’s industry leaders in sustainability, to make positive change,” says Redress Founder Christina Dean. “The fashion world is screaming out for innovation to help it transform from polluter to pioneer, and the next generation of designers can help to drive this change.”
As proof of concept—and as an example of the change that the awards are designed to foster—Le Ngoc Ha Thu, winner of Redress Design Award 2020 Menswear category, has launched a new clothing item as part of the sustainable Lunar New Year collection for Timberland. The innovative 3-in-1 parka and accompanying backpack offers endless combinations for diverse activities and living conditions. As part of the launch, we chatted with Thu (pronounced ‘two’) about her journey in the competition, her recommendations for aspiring applicants, and her work with Timberland!
Redress Design Award 2020 Menswear category winner: Le Ngoc Ha Thu
Hi Thu! Thank you so much for chatting with us! Would love to know a bit about your background and what got you interested in sustainable fashion.
In high school I was interested in all things design related, and at the same time paying attention to growing concerns about climate change by joining an Environmental Club. My “aha” moment was reading the book Eco Fashion by Sass Brown. Instead of the overwhelming doom and gloom that surrounded us, the book highlighted not just the problem but also provided a solution to one of the biggest contributors for greenhouse gasses, the fashion industry. With this inspiration, I pursued higher education at the London College for Design and Fashion in Vietnam, aiming to utilize these solutions in my own work.
As the winner of the 2020 Redress Design Awards, it would be great to hear more about your experience during the competition. What were the highs and lows?
It was perhaps the most unique year to be part of the competition as it was also the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, which changed the way the competition operated. Everything was conducted virtually and while, unfortunately, we didn’t have the opportunity to visit Hong Kong and participate in person, it accelerated my knowledge in the already growing digital design space. One key challenge that I remember fondly was the Digital Up-cycling Challenge with TAL and Browzwear. Browzwear is a platform that lets people design, develop and market fashion using their 3D software, which can help accelerate and streamline the design process while also reducing waste during the sample stage. We had to work in teams to provide design-manufacturing solutions to address TAL’s Covid-19 related deadstock and we only had 48 hours to complete the challenge. Working across time zones and design aesthetics allowed me to experiment and learn from the challenge and from my teammates, and the experience has informed my subsequent work and design process.
The 2022 competition just launched. What advice do you have for people thinking of applying?
I approached the competition as a learning opportunity as it is geared towards individuals with less than four years in the design industry. One of the most important experiences was taking the free design pathway course offered by Redress. I learnt about the four circular design strategies of Redress—Design for Low Waste, Design for Low-impact Materials and Processes, Design for Longevity, and Design for Recyclability—which were, in turn, part of the judging criteria.
You have approximately 2.5 months (start of January through mid-March) to complete the application form which requires a mood board and three ready-to-wear design sketches. But something that I didn’t expect was the writing component. The application requires explanations and justifications about textile choice, thinking process behind the design and what makes it sustainable, and also your aspirations as a sustainable designer. You are required to explore how your strategies and techniques ensure that the garments are part of the circular economy. Similarly, when going from the semi-finalist to the finalist stage, you are also required to provide answers explaining how you have incorporated each circular design strategy into the collection. It makes you think about every aspect of the design process, from material selection until the end of the garment’s life, and I’ve become a better sustainable designer because of it.
That’s fascinating! Pivoting a little, congratulations on launching your design with Timberland! What was your inspiration for the design?
The theme for this collection was the Lunar New Year, specifically as it is the year of the Tiger. I was tasked with creating the key piece of the collection, something that was an incredible opportunity. So I researched a lot about the white tiger, which was their main motif, during this time! In particular, I took inspiration from the animal’s physical characteristics—the power and agility displayed by tigers. As Timberland is also an activewear and outdoor brand, I combined these aspects to create a piece that enhances the wearer’s movement, specifically by modifying the armhole areas of the liner to allow for greater mobility. I was also inspired by Timberland’s commitment to their customers and the environment with their 3-in-1 compatible layering system (CLS), which allows outerwear pieces and liners to be worn on their own or layered together. I tried to elevate this already effective system, which was ambitious and difficult, by adding a backpack with bottom straps that would contribute to the versatility of the garment.
What was the process of collaborating with such a big brand? What were some challenges or surprises along the way?
It was an incredible experience to work with such a large corporation with multinational operations that still aims to include sustainability in their design and manufacturing process. I was able to visit factories with the sustainability and compliance officer to learn more about the standards they had for their partner factories. I also had in depth conversations with the EMEA Sustainability and Responsibility Manager of Timberland, not only learning more about their sustainability efforts and goals, but also gaining a lot of incredible advice for my own design process and brand building. This opportunity was an educational experience and I am truly thankful to all those who made this possible.
We also love a bit of inside scoop – how do you practice sustainability in your everyday life? Are there any brands you love to wear?
My attempts at living more sustainably are in line with most others, reducing transportation, reducing meat intake and reducing consumption in general. In terms of fashion, I was buying only secondhand for a while but have recently started supporting the local fashion scene in Vietnam. Learning more about climate justice has reinforced for me that individual contribution can be a privilege and that it will not be sufficient to make a difference. So that’s why I am excited and inspired to work with companies and organisations such as VF and Redress that are making large scale differences.
Finally, what’s next for you? Is there anything you’d like to share with Honeycombers readers?
I am very excited that all our hard work has finally come to fruition. You can buy the All Gender 3-in-1 Waterproof Jacket on the online Timberland stores in Hong Kong, Singapore, and Malaysia. I am also continuing my work as a freelance designer while working to launch my collection. And finally, I am honoured to be a part of the alumni network of the Redress Awards. It is a community that continues to support my growth, through the alumni showcase connection with industry stakeholders and a lot more!
