Attention, wine enthusiasts – Chinese wines are on the rise and these vines are here to stay!
In Hong Kong, Chinese-produced grape wines are increasingly sharing the spotlight with familiar bottles from Bordeaux, Chianti, and New World regions. To explore the world of Chinese wines, we consulted three industry experts for their insights on emerging trends and recommendations. Get ready to hear from 2025 Michelin Guide Sommelier Award winner Calito Chiu of one-Michelin-starred Ando, Jamie Feng from the exclusive private members’ club and wine bar 67 Pall Mall, and Marco Wong of the esteemed Chinese restaurant Man Wah.
Vines on the rise: Chinese wines in Hong Kong
Q: What are your views on China’s wine country and its offerings?
Speaking on China’s wine country and its offerings, Carlito Chiu commends the “commitment to quality and innovation among Chinese winemakers.” He believes “we are witnessing the beginning of a remarkable journey for Chinese wines.”
While the region is known for its “focus on Bordeaux-style blends,” Jamie Feng is impressed by the Chinese wine industry for its recent experimentations “with new viticulture practices and grape varieties.” This resulted in the Marselan grape becoming representative of “China’s wine identity.” Similarly, Marco Wong points to the willingness of “new and younger winemakers to be bold in trying new things in hope to put their stamp on winemaking.”
Despite promising potential, Wong highlights drawbacks hindering the development of Chinese wines on the global market. “In comparison to well known or more traditionally accepted wine making regions such as France and Italy,” he explains. “China has only made a small splash in the global market, and therefore remains lesser known to consumers.”
Q: Do you think Chinese wines populating the Hong Kong market is a short-lived trend? Or are Chinese vines here to stay?
Despite a slow start, Chinese wines are gaining increasing popularity with the Hong Kong audience. Chiu attributes “a growing appreciation for local and regional wines” to consumers with adventurous tastebuds – a demand that the “unique flavour profiles, high quality and wide diversity of Chinese wines” will undoubtedly satisfy.
In addition to its innovative spirit and blooming diversity, it seems that even Mother Nature is cheering for Chinese vineyards. “We are beginning to see shifts in regions that were not considered appropriate for wine making,” says Wong, commenting on the growing environmental advantages among Chinese terroirs. “This is especially true of regions in Northern China, with high altitudes, soil acidity, and mineral content suitable for cultivating vines.”
In fact, 67 on Hollywood (the Hong Kong destination of 67 Pall Mall) has recently hosted the “China Uncorked” initiative showcasing a range of bottles from locales as diverse as Hebei, Yunnan, and Ningxia. “At 67 Pall Mall, we see ourselves as a platform for wine lovers to discover unique and underrepresented regions and producers,” says Feng. “We’re excited to help more people explore and appreciate these wines.”
Q: What made you decide to include Chinese wines on your respective wine lists?
Given the Latin American soul of Ando, Chiu’s choice to include a Chinese grape wine on the list was a “deliberate choice.” “The Helan Mountain Riesling exemplifies the potential of the grape, showcasing a beautiful balance of acidity and fruit character,” Chiu explains. “It pairs exceptionally well with our Crudo dishes, and I believe it provides our guests with a unique tasting experience that highlights the quality of Chinese winemaking.”
As for Wong, adding Chinese wines on Man Wah’s latest tasting menu was his way to try something new. “While Chinese cuisine is traditionally paired with Baijiu, as a wine sommelier, I feel that some of the dishes pair significantly better with wines,” says Wong. “The fruitier tastes, tanginess, and sometimes malolactic notes can complement a dish in innovative ways.” Working closely with Executive Chef Wong Wing-keung, Wong curates his pairings based on seasonality and compatibility with dishes. “I feel that with wine pairing,” he adds, “we can elevate Chinese cuisine to a broader audience.”
While 67 Pall Mall is no stranger to Chinese wines, Feng underscores their commitment to quality and taste, as well as their mission to introduce lesser known varieties to the global market. “While many Chinese wines still focus on Bordeaux-style blends or Marselan, we’ve worked hard to showcase a broader range of offerings,” says Feng. “About 80% of the wines were selected through blind tastings, ensuring we choose based on merit rather than reputation. Since Chinese wines are relatively young, there is a lack of back vintages on the market. Despite these challenges, the journey has been rewarding. We’ve curated a list that reflects the innovation and growing excellence of Chinese winemaking.”
Q: Are you looking to include more Chinese reds and whites on your menus in the near future? Why?
All three experts respond with a resounding, “Yes!” “The diversity of styles and flavours available from various regions is compelling,” says Chiu. “And I see great potential for these wines to complement our culinary offerings.”
For Wong, compatibility with Man Wah’s dishes is key to any bottle making the list. “I chose Kanaan winery’s Riesling for its clean aroma, tropical fruit notes of lemon, banana, and yellow pear, and unique minerality that goes particularly well with seafood dishes,” he explains.“On the other hand, the Cabernet varieties from Shandong’s Mystic Island pairs well with the richness of wagyu beef because of its toast and biscuity notes.”
In addition to 67 Pall Mall’s robust list of Chinese wines, Feng expresses his want for future expansion. “We’re excited to see new wineries emerge and look forward to expanding our list with producers from less traditional regions,” he says.“It’s thrilling to see more diversity in styles, such as pet-nats and orange wines, which adds excitement to the industry. We want to bring these incredible wines to the community and let them speak for themselves.”
Q: Are there other Chinese regions or producers you’d like to recommend to our readers?
True to his experience in a Michelin-starred kitchen, Chiu recommends two of the best labels in China. “I would highly recommend exploring wines from the Yunnan region. Particularly those from producers like Célèbre Winery in the Himalayas (寶莊) and Domaine Muxin in Yunnan (木杺),” he elaborates. “Their dedication to quality and expression of terroir is impressive. Additionally, Chinese yellow wines are also worth considering, as they offer a distinct perspective on Chinese viticulture.”
Sticking to the tried and true, Wong highlights the Riesling from Kanaan Winery, Cabernet varieties from Mystic Island, and Yunnan’s Ao Yun winery featured on Man Wah’s menu as some of his favourites. He adds, “I also recommend trying wines from Domaine de Long Dai in Shandong or Puchang Vineyards or Tiansai Vineyards in Xinjiang.”
As an expert of Chinese vineyards, Feng chooses a bottle he believes represents the industry. “The Zaxee Walnut Winery Cabernet Sauvignon would be my pick,” says Feng. “It’s a 100% Chinese-made wine, crafted entirely by a local winemaker with no foreign influence. Everything, from planting to harvesting, is done manually. This low-intervention wine reflects the unique terroir of the region, shaped by the area’s religious practices and physical environment. With no root in Bordeaux or Napa, it’s distinctly Chinese Cabernet Sauvignon. A true reflection of the country’s winemaking identity.”
Calito Chiu, Ando
Address: Ando, 1F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening hours: Mon – Sat, 12 – 3:30pm (lunch) and 6:30 – 10:30pm (dinner)
Connect with Chiu Ando website
Jamie Feng, 67 Pall Mall (Shanghai)
Address: 67 on Hollywood, G/F, 41 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong
Opening hours: Tue – Sat, 4pm till late
Connect with Feng 67 on Hollywood website
Marco Wong, Man Wah
Address: Man Wah, 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
Opening hours: Mon – Fri, 12 – 2:30pm (lunch); Sat – Sun, 11:30am – 2:30pm (lunch); 6 – 10:30pm every day (dinner)
Connect with Wong Man Wah website
What are your thoughts on Chinese wines? DM @honeycombershk on Instagram or drop me an email at [email protected].
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is there increasing interest in Chinese wines in Hong Kong?
Hong Kong's increasing interest in Chinese wines stems from consumer curiosity beyond traditional regions. As China's wine industry matures and the quality of bottles improves, Hong Kong, a key wine hub in Asia, naturally becomes central for their introduction to and recognition in the international market.
What are some of the key characteristics and grape varieties to know about Chinese wines?
Chinese winemaking is diverse and wine characteristics can vary depending on the region, climate, and winemaking techniques. You might find reds with bold fruit and structure, while whites can range from crisp and aromatic to richer styles. Key grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan, Cabernet Gernischt, cold-hardy hybrids, Viognier, and Riesling.
Where can I find and learn more about Chinese wines in Hong Kong?
If you're interested in exploring Chinese wines in Hong Kong, consider looking for specialised wine shops, restaurants with diverse wine lists, wine fairs and tastings, and online retailers.
