Forget the slivers of sashimi you thought you knew. Ki Su gives the Japanese omakase experience a meatless spin with its sophisticated creations.
Ask anyone in Singapore about their favourite cuisines and nine times out of ten, you’ll hear “Japanese!” with a resounding cheer and a beaming grin. I might be an anomaly, as I lean more towards Mexican, Thai and Korean. But when I heard rumblings of a new vegetarian omakase concept, I knew I had to try this unconventional dining experience. Ki Su is birthed by the folks behind Singapore’s upscale vegetarian icon: Joie by Dozo. There’s a level of expectation that comes with it, so I went in curious and tentative but ready to be impressed.
Ki Su Singapore review: Is plant-based Japanese omakase blasphemy or brilliant?
Omakase concepts in Singapore are aplenty, and most of us know what to expect from these places. The decor is usually wood-centric and inviting, the service is quietly attentive, and the food transports you right to your favourite spot in Japan. But throw in the word “plant-based” and suddenly you’re intrigued (or apprehensive, depending on your perspective of vegetarian food).
Purists may scoff at the idea of sushi without the actual fish, but if you’re open to giving it a try, it’s a unique experience. Meanwhile, it’s a win for our vegetarian friends, who don’t have to be relegated to a few token items on the menu.
As you enter Ki Su, you leave behind the bustle of Tras Street. The tranquil atmosphere welcomes you warmly, caressing you with its zen embrace. Take a seat by the counter to watch the chefs perfecting their craft, or book a private room to enjoy the meal with friends.
Ki Su’s unique omakase experience is inspired by the artistry of shojin ryori cuisine, which is traditional Japanese Buddhist cooking. It steers clear of meat and fish, focusing mainly on showcasing the natural flavours of seasonal vegetables. Pop by for an eight-course lunch ($88++) or 10-course dinner ($168++) to embark on a meatless culinary journey elevated by intricate presentation, friendly service, and an unusual mix of flavours and textures.
If it looks like sushi, should it taste like sushi?
Throw away your expectations of mock meat or cultivated meat – that’s not the focal point here. It’s all about enhancing the taste and look of fresh vegetables to give you that refined omakase dining experience devoid of animal flesh. Ki Su’s “sushi” comes somewhat close to the appearance of the real deal, but it’s not meant to taste like raw fish on rice; it’s more of a celebration of vegetables in ways that even haters can appreciate.
The meal starts strong with a duo of appetisers: the creamy avocado taco made with chickpea flour wafer, avocado puree, and house-made plant-based ikura; and the egg yolk toast with tonburi caviar, a beautifully decadent bite sandwiched between buttered toast topped with a sprinkle of gold flakes.
Moving on to the “sushi”: you get three glistening pieces for lunch. I won’t spoil it for you, but ingredients like capsicum, eggplant, and shimeji mushrooms are used in a creative way – some torched to get that lovely char – for maximum flavour. If you enjoy pâté, look forward to sampling the vegetarian version that’s made creamy with truffle and nuts on toast.
Mushrooms in all shapes and sizes
One thing I’ll say is that I hope you adore mushrooms because you’ll get a lot of the umami fungi here in different forms. The yakimono dish features a charcoal-grilled skewer of beancurd skin wrapped around cherry tomato and enoki mushrooms, glazed in a sweet soy sauce.
Next up, the golden temaki delivers a crackling crunch with fried maitake mushrooms in a seaweed hand roll. It comes topped with an oyster leaf – and if you haven’t nibbled on one before, its briny flavour will remind you why it got its name. I wasn’t a huge fan of this component, but that’s only because I don’t particularly enjoy oysters.
Finally, we arrive at the entree: more mushrooms. This time, the monkey head mushroom roulade is paired with black pepper sauce and a side of truffle mashed potato. The juicy mushrooms are fibrous and chewy – almost meaty in texture – though three generous chunks were a tad too much for me. Maybe I was all mushroomed out.
Satisfying and substantial, but not “food coma” full
To cleanse your palate, enjoy mouthfuls of clean and clear leek-infused soup with a blooming baby Napa cabbage flower. Dessert rounds off the lunch with layers of sweet treats: from a base of crushed almonds and walnuts to caramel to pistachio mousse to matcha cookie crumbs and corn biscuit, there’s a lot to savour.
I also got a little peek at the dinner dessert, which includes an interactive element. Watch the chefs pour liquid nitrogen into a vibrant mix of edible flower petals, mint leaves and herbs. Once they’re freeze-dried, grab your wooden cutlery and crush ‘em so that they cover the ice cream prettily.
The plant-based omakase dining experience at Ki Su is sophisticated and innovative, and the pacing of the meal at lunchtime is good. Although you’re treated to eight courses, the timing between each dish doesn’t leave you waiting too long, and the afternoon wraps up nicely in about one-and-a-half hours.
By the end of the meal, you’ll be stuffed – and not in an unsatisfactory “I’ve gotta grab some chicken rice after this” kind of way. The creations are light yet filling, so you walk away contented but not overly weighed down by the amount of food you just ate. Perhaps it’s time to give meatless Mondays another shot after this.
Ki Su, #01-01, 60 Tras Street, Singapore 078999
