Gilmore & Damian D’Silva review: A feast that hits all the heritage, heart, and flavour notes

Experience heritage and flavour at Gilmore & Damian D’Silva, chef Damian’s tribute to heirloom recipes and inspiration.

National Gallery Singapore is undergoing a culinary transformation, and Gilmore & Damian D’Silva is the latest addition to this museum in Singapore. Chef Damian’s fresh venture is a tribute to his late grandfather Gilmore (aka Pop), who played a significant role in influencing and shaping the culinary maestro’s life. But how does this new restaurant in Singapore differ from Rempapa, the establishment most associated with chef Damian? I’m about to find out…

Gilmore & Damian D’Silva review: Details at a glance

Best for: Diners who live for nostalgia, heat, and dishes with a story
Must-try items: Christmas Debal; jackfruit rendang; Cowdang; nourishing chicken soup in coconut
How much: Set lunch at $38 per person; food from $8; drinks from $3
Opening hours: Daily, 11.30am to 10pm
Address: Gilmore & Damian D’Silva, #01-02/03, National Gallery, 1 St Andrew’s Road, Singapore 178957

A full circle moment for the D’Silvas

Gilmore & Damian D’Silva finds its home in the National Gallery, where chef Damian once roamed the corridors as a child while his grandfather served as the Supreme Court’s sole custodian. Located in the Supreme Court Wing, the restaurant is a heartfelt homecoming, carrying whispers of chef Damian’s childhood and Gilmore’s legacy.

“The idea of opening a restaurant in the very place where my grandfather once served as caretaker, and where I also lived, felt serendipitous and deeply meaningful,” chef Damian said.

I captured glimpses of Gilmore D’Silva and chef Damian’s tribute to his beloved grandfather as I toured the restaurant. The front counter featured a lamp with birds (Gilmore had a fascination with them), and family photographs adorned various spots across the space. I also spotted a framed copy of Gilmore’s recipe book, and cupboards filled with kitchenware used in Eurasian cooking. It felt like I was snooping around a Eurasian home, keeping busy while waiting for dinner to commence.

A menu steeped in memory and heritage

The menu is both a celebration of Eurasian flavours and Chinese delicacies, inspired by Gilmore’s cooking. “Not everything came directly from my grandfather’s recipe book; some were dishes he cooked often and that I chose to recreate from memory,” chef Damian shared.

I imagine it must’ve been a gargantuan task deciding which dishes to replicate. According to chef Damian, multiple tastings were done to determine which recipes have a spot on the menu. Side note: I adored the menu’s colour story. The blues are a nice pop of colour amidst the restaurant’s earthy tones.

My meal started with handmade Teochew ngoh hiang ($16) and nourishing chicken soup in coconut ($28). Unlike the regular ngoh hiang, Gilmore & Damian D’Silva’s version is wrapped in hand-washed caul fat pork. While it lent a meatier bite, the dish lacked the distinctive crunch I’m accustomed to. The chicken soup, however, was heaven in a bowl. The herby flavours on their own were slurp-worthy, but if you want a little kick, I recommend stirring in the sambal.

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Flavours turned up to eleven

Just when I thought the opening act had already stolen the show, the mains waltzed in with the same confidence. Our table was in for a feast, with plates of Eurasian dishes all ready to feed us hungry souls. The jackfruit rendang ($24) was a unanimous favourite, earning rave reviews for the rich gravy and the fruit’s tender yet meaty texture. I forgot I was digging into jackfruit for the most part!

Personally, my vote goes to the Christmas Debal ($48), a festive Kristang (an ethnic group of Portuguese and Malay descent) classic, with smoked ham, bacon bones, roast pork, and chicken. I enjoyed the robust flavours – it felt like someone punched my throat, and I have nothing to offer except “thank you.” Bonus points for the accompanying vegetable achar, which offered a bright contrast to the Debal.

The Cowdang ($22) is an interesting dish: it’s derived from an almost-forgotten Kristang culinary heritage, consisting of prawns cooked in coconut milk and spices. Yes, I almost fell for the name too! (There’s also a joke that the name is a pun on a certain animal’s poo…) Think of this as an almost dry version of laksa, minus the noodles and the flavours amplified. My only minor gripe is that the prawns were half-peeled, but that’s just my spoilt self rearing its ugly head.

If you want more variety for your spread, go for the ambiler kachang ($18) or chickpea masala ($16). There’s your daily fibre intake with a side of spices. Those who love otah can order the Pesce Assa ($26), which swaps the mackerel for Korean seerfish. The fish was a little dry for me, but you might have better luck.

Sugar, spice, and heritage nice

Sweet treats included sugee cake ($18) and a platter of local heritage kuehs (from $12). It almost felt like a National Day celebration! The cake had a balance of nutty and buttery notes, with the chantilly cream adding another layer of sweetness.

Chef Damian prides himself as a culinary artist with a mission to preserve heritage flavours, and it’s at Gilmore & Damian D’Silva where his raison d’être truly shone. Besides the food, the Eurasian influences also extend to the kitchenware – I was told they were specifically selected and imported from Portugal! Talk about dedication.

So, how does it differ from Rempapa? There’s a lot more heart here, and that sense of devotion is what ultimately sets it apart. Gilmore & Damian D’Silva will make you wish you’d done more for your grandparents, while also celebrating the heritage that made chef Damian who he is.

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