Loca Niru restaurant review: Exquisite fine dining at a historic house in Singapore

The fine dining experience at Loca Niru is elevated by its innovative menu and setting in a national monument.

Loca Niru is the freshest face in Singapore’s fine dining scene, and its unique location in the House of Tan Yeok Nee gives it an edge. After all, who else can claim they’re the first splurge-worthy concept to welcome guests in a 140-year-old national monument? When I visited the new restaurant in Singapore, every aspect of the dining experience impressed – from the space to the service to the food. Here’s what to expect.

Loca Niru restaurant review: Details at a glance

Best for: A classy date night or a special occasion splurge
Must-try items: Maguro; Isaki; Hassun
How much: Tasting menu at $298++ per person; sake pairing $148++ per person; wine pairing $188++ per person
Opening hours: Tuesdays to Saturdays, 6pm to 11pm (last seating at 8pm)
Address: Loca Niru, #02-01, House of Tan Yeok Nee, 101 Penang Road, Singapore 238466

Touches of heritage in a modern space

Let’s start from the beginning: built in 1885, the House of Tan Yeok Nee was touted as one of the “Four Grand Mansions” of Teochew architecture in Singapore. And it’s the only one left standing.

From Teochew businessman Tan Yeok Nee to the Karim family, the venue has seen different owners over the years. It’s been a girls’ home, The Salvation Army’s headquarters, and a school. Now, it’s conserved and restored as a cultural and lifestyle destination. One milestone worth noting? The House of Tan Yeok Nee is open to the public for the first time in 140 years.

Before you enter, take a moment to admire the intricate details of the historic house. I’d recommend arriving early (or lingering after your meal) to explore the free-to-enter gallery on the first level. It’s a small area, but it’ll satisfy your curiosity about the mansion’s architecture and artistry. Tip: there’s no car park or drop-off point at the House of Tan Yeok Nee, so the closest spot to alight is 103 Penang Road.

Loca Niru sits on the second floor, in a minimalistic, beige-hued 36-seater space that quietly invites you in for a tasteful dining experience. Its heritage story is told in whispers, with much of the original architecture remaining. Modern design touches elevate the restaurant, giving it a sense of tranquillity and intimacy. If you want a little seclusion, two private dining rooms await.

With seats around the open kitchen layout, you’re encouraged to interact with the chefs and enjoy the display of culinary art. I appreciated the warm service that anticipated my every need and left me feeling like I’d just visited the home of a gracious host.

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A refined dining experience that impresses

There’s a thoughtful elegance in executive chef Shusuke Kubota’s incorporation of Japanese ingredients with Southeast Asian produce and French techniques. Born in Nagano, Japan, he helms Loca Niru armed with experience in Japanese, French, and Southeast Asian kitchens. In his hands, the menu takes on a unique shape.

Loca Niru’s eight-course tasting menu ($298++ per person) is a beautiful journey that starts with Hassun. Right off the bat, the trio of bite-sized snacks set the standard. There’s sweet prawn tartare on a tart with tosazu jelly and pomelo pulp, and sturgeon brandade in a pie tee shell with Oscietra caviar. But my top pick of the lot is the frog roll wrapped in crispy kadaif and served with a dollop of curry leaf aioli, creating a surprisingly medley of flavours and textures.

From there, dishes are a wonder to savour. Maguro is a plate of fatty tuna slices paired with mustard seed and scallion pickles, smoked tofu puree, and roselle calamansi vinegar. Awabi tops braised abalone with vegetable stock chawanmushi and seasonal mushrooms for an earthy bite with silky egg custard.

Meanwhile, the grilled wagyu dish, smoked with sugarcane and served with burnt onion beef jus, salted pepper, and caramelised onions, is impeccably executed, though slightly less inventive when measured against the rest of the menu.

My favourite? The Isaki course of pan-seared Japanese grunt fish with a perfectly crisp sliver of skin, paired with scallop mousse-stuffed zucchini flower and a Nyonya beurre blanc sauce that I happily said yes to when offered more. The dish is served with a chewy, almost chocolatey buah keluak bread that’s great for soaking up every last drop of sauce.

After a palate-cleansing shine muscat treat with coconut mousse and a refreshing perilla and kedondong sorbet, the chocolate dessert is a much-appreciated final note. With Malaysian chocolate ice cream and gula melaka sabayon complemented by plum and nutmeg puree, each bite is light yet decadent – truly a worthy end to the meal.

Is Loca Niru worth the visit?

Absolutely – Loca Niru is a fine dining restaurant well worth the splurge. It’s quiet luxury with the excitement of creative dishes that spotlight Southeast Asian ingredients in a classy way. While you’re there (and if your budget allows), I’d recommend opting for a six-glass beverage pairing of sake ($148++ per person) or wine ($188++ per person) to enjoy your experience to the fullest.

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