Has the 2024 blockbuster Twilight of the Warriors: Walled In got you intrigued by the Kowloon Walled City? Here’s a deep dive into the historical neighbourhood.
Hong Kong may appear as a modern metropolis to unassuming eyes. But hidden beneath this sleek facade of fast cars and towering skyscrapers is rich and diverse cultural history. Apart from historical buildings and Chinese temples, the remains of Kowloon Walled City is another cultural landmark in Hong Kong. Despite having been demolished in the early 1990s, the walled city’s cultural memory remains associated with rampant crime and debauchery. Whether you’re here because you recently watched the 2024 action-thriller Twilight of the Warriors: Walled In, or simply want to learn more about this crucial part of Old Hong Kong, join us as we explore the history of Kowloon Walled City.
A deep dive into Kowloon Walled City
Of tight spaces and winding streets
Located in present-day Kowloon City, Kowloon Walled City was a high-density residential and business area notorious for its poor infrastructure, utilities, and sanitation. While crime was rampant in the early days, it became a relatively safe settlement for those who couldn’t afford housing elsewhere in Hong Kong. During colonial Hong Kong, it even became a tourist destination for visitors – particularly Europeans – who wanted to experience an “exotic” neighbourhood. Many unlicensed doctors and dentists also practised here; which was why it became a popular spot for cheap medicine and dental work in the 1980s.
Despite the harsh living conditions in Kowloon Walled City, residents frequently formed tight-knit communities with their neighbours. There was a strong sense of camaraderie and kindness, as people looked out for each other. Wives would help one another with housework, grandparents took care of children, and it was common to see kids gathering and playing on the rooftops of buildings before the sun sets.
A lawful enclave: The inception of Kowloon Walled City
Despite its notoriety as a “lawless” place, Kowloon Walled City began as an outpost for the imperial government during the Song dynasty. In fact, the iconic city walls didn’t even come into play until the British came. Initially, only a mandarin’s office (yamen) was present to monitor the salt trade in Hong Kong. From the Yuan to Qing dynasties, the jurisdiction of this office expanded to oversee coastal defence against pirates and foreign navies.
Here comes Victoria: The Kowloon Walled City during British colonisation
To combat the cessation of Hong Kong Island in 1841 and the subsequent loss of territory during British colonisation, Qing authorities fortified their outpost on the Kowloon Peninsula by building city walls. Perhaps due to the relative leniency of British ruling, the Kowloon Walled City fell out of British control and remained an enclave of Qing dynastic power.
End of an era: Kowloon Walled City after the Qing dynasty
Despite having claimed ownership of the Kowloon Walled City after the fall of Qing, the British government didn’t do much with it (as they had a war to take care of). A protestant church took the initiative to set up an elderly home and a school inside the old yamen, but that was about it until 1933. When World War II rolled around and the Japanese took over, more of the walled city was demolished for materials to build Kai Tak Airport.
After Japan surrendered, the National Chinese government tried to regain control of the Kowloon Walled City. After a series of legal and political battles with the British, both sides settled on a “hands-off” compromise. From 1948 to its demolition, neither the British nor the Chinese could enforce their laws within city walls. As a result, triads and gangs stepped up to the role as rulers of this little kingdom.
Demolition and the Kowloon Walled City Park
Due to Kowloon Walled City’s deteriorating sanitary conditions, both governments formally called for its demolition in 1987. In the same year, they decided to turn the site into a public park. The construction for this urban green space began in 1994, one year after the demolition of the city walls. Another year later, the park opened with an inauguration by Governor Chris Patten. You’ll find a series of serene Chinese gardens alongside water features, bridges, and spaces for relaxation in the Kowloon Walled City Park. The remnants of the old yamen was preserved and declared a monument by the Antiques and Monuments Office in 1996.
Representations in popular media
The remains of Kowloon Walled City served as the backdrop for many Hong Kong films. The most recent is the popular action-thriller flick, Twilight of the Warriors: Walled In (2024). The film features some of the best rendition of the environment and life in the walled city. Referencing old photographs, the set design of this film perfectly captures the noisy, complex, and claustrophobic interiors of the neighbourhood. In addition to local representations, the walled city has also inspired the walled neighbourhood, Narrows, in Batman Begins (2005).
Furthermore, the walled city has made its way into video games. Recent examples include the indie horror game Welcome to Kowloon (2023). Here, the player roams around a crumbling apartment complex in search of its inhabitants’ secrets. Stray (2022) is another game inspired by the narrow environment of Kowloon Walled City. Here, you play as a ginger cat exploring a post-apocalyptic, cyberpunk-esque urban area that’s been left in shambles.
Life in the Kowloon Walled City
Despite the harsh living conditions of the Kowloon Walled City, there was an unmistakable and characteristic humdrum to life within the walls; businesses were booming, families thrived, children played and learned – there was life.
It’s undeniable that living conditions were dire in Kowloon Walled City, but it doesn’t mean life was hopeless within those walls. Particularly after World War II, many inhabitants of the walled city were refugees who escaped to Hong Kong. What’s more, after they evicted the original residents, the poor and the homeless managed to find shelter in the ruins of the walled city, precisely because it was a “lawless” place. For these people, their newfound home and lifestyle would have fared better than their past. Yes – for many, Kowloon was and remains the “darkside” of Hong Kong – but it doesn’t stop us from calling it home.
