I've been living in Lovina for two years. Here's my honest guide on what to do, where to eat and the best places to stay in Bali's quiet north coast.
Lovina has often been overlooked in travel guides, typically mentioned only for its wild dolphin sightings. However, nestled along Bali’s northern coast, this rustic seaside spot offers much more. It’s an ideal retreat for those looking to escape the crowds of the South, blending the charm of ‘old Bali’ with modern tourist conveniences.
Framed by a black sand beach on one side and dramatic, waterfall-strewn mountains on the other, Lovina is a perfect place to relax, grab a cold beer and watch the sunset. Though the area consists of several small villages, most restaurants and hotels are conveniently clustered within a walkable distance. For those considering a longer stay in Lovina, Singaraja—a former capital and vibrant university town—is just a 20-minute drive away, providing easy access to additional amenities.
I moved here two years ago to escape the pressures of London. This is my behind the scenes guide to exploring Lovina.
Where to Stay in Lovina
1. For Boutique Luxury: The Damai
Tucked into the hills above Lovina, The Damai recently reopened with an outstanding five-star experience. While dining in its beautiful restaurant, I took a sneaky look at its 16 rooms and suites which are spread across landscaped grounds, offering breathtaking ocean views. Each space is thoughtfully designed, blending traditional Indonesian elements with contemporary elegance. Guests can enjoy an exceptional on-site restaurant, spa, yoga shala, and pool, with private cars available for the 10-minute drive down to Lovina. For families seeking luxury, the two-bedroom suites come with a private pool for an indulgent stay.
2. For a High-Quality Resort: The Lovina
Lovina’s coastline is lined with low-rise resorts, but The Lovina stands out as the best. The resort features a mix of hotel rooms and serviced villas, arranged around an expansive swimming pool and beachfront restaurant. Rooms are modern, bright, and airy, with most offering sea views. Guests can stroll along the beachfront jogging track into Lovina’s centre or take advantage of the complimentary buggy service to explore local highlights.
3. For a Traditional, Laid-Back Stay: Rambutan
Located in the heart of Lovina, Rambutan offers charming Balinese-style accommodations set within lush tropical gardens. Known for its warm hospitality, this family-run hotel has a loyal following of returning guests, and we have often used it when large groups have been visiting. It provides some of the best value in the area, with deluxe rooms offering extra comfort at a modest price. The poolside restaurant serves delicious traditional breakfasts, adding to its relaxed and inviting atmosphere.
4. For a Stylish Homestay: Villa Rawarawa
Situated on the beachfront in central Lovina, Villa Rawarawa offers a unique homestay experience with an English family (i.e. me, my husband and two children). The architect-designed villa has been thoughtfully renovated, featuring a jungle-style garden and serene pool area that create a relaxing oasis—while still being steps away from Lovina’s main attractions.
5. For a Luxury Villa: Sea View Beach Estate
Lovina is home to many stunning villas, but Sea View Beach Estate is in a league of its own. Built and managed by the owner of Bali’s leading real estate company, this high-end villa delivers a full-service luxury experience. Its design blends sleek monochrome minimalism with natural elements, offering spectacular views of the ocean and neighbouring rice fields.
Where to Eat in Lovina
1. Tanda Pizza
Owned by Davide, an Italian chef who honed his skills in Singapore, Tanda Pizza has quickly become one of Lovina’s top dining spots. Everything is made fresh—if you want lasagna, you’ll need to order in advance, as Davide refuses to serve anything frozen! The pizza crust and fresh pasta are arguably the best in Bali (try telling my children otherwise!), but be sure to save room for their tiramisu, a masterpiece of lightness and fluffiness and my husband’s personal favourite.
2. Coffeenosky
With its Instagram-worthy views of the rice fields, Coffeenosky is a favourite among both tourists and locals, and my personal local caffeine stop. Their all-day menu features delicious brunch dishes, many with a Japanese twist—perfect for refuelling after an early morning dolphin-watching trip. Coffee is roasted by Wahyu, while his wife, Kiki, creates exquisite homemade cakes that are not to be missed.
3. Buda Bakery
A true Lovina institution, Buda Bakery has been serving up an all-day menu of Indonesian and International cuisine with a twist for years, while the downstairs bakery offers freshly baked European-style bread and pastries. Though slightly removed from Lovina’s centre (a manageable 10-minute walk), the peaceful mountain views and relaxed ambiance make it well worth the trip—especially with a refreshing “Mojitea” in hand.
4. Café Leo
One of Lovina’s newest culinary additions, Café Leo is the brain child of French-trained Chefs Jim and Ela. Their Café-style breakfast & lunch menu features a range of delicious dishes, alongside freshly home-made pastries and cakes. Committed to quality, they now smoke their own salmon, ham and bacon. A partnership with a local tea maker also means you can sample unique flavours, including their Leo signature Butterfly Pea tea.
5. Global Village
For a meal that warms both the heart and the stomach, head to Global Village. This social enterprise was founded to support disabled people in North Bali, employing only those who are deaf or hard of hearing. But this is no charity gimmick—the food is genuinely fantastic. Tucked away on the main road, the restaurant serves up flavourful curries from Bali and beyond, alongside what may be the best mango lassis you’ll ever taste.
Things to Do in Lovina
1. Watch the Famous Dolphins
Lovina’s most well-known attraction is its wild dolphins, which swim along the coast each morning. Early risers can board traditional fishing boats from the beach to see these playful creatures up close. Two species are commonly spotted, with the smaller dolphins often delighting visitors with acrobatic jumps. During the dry season, when the waters are calm, you can even snorkel alongside the boats to watch them glide beneath the surface.
Tours are easily arranged by speaking directly with the boat captains on the beach. I am lucky to have been out lots of times now and am never disappointed. An insider’s tip: the early morning tours can get crowded in peak season, so consider going at 8am for a more peaceful experience.
2. Chase Waterfalls
North Bali is home to an array of stunning waterfalls, each offering a unique experience. Adventure seekers should visit Aling-Aling, where guides will show you the best spots for cliff-jumping and natural water slides. If you prefer a scenic hike, Git-Git Twin Waterfalls, located on the way to Lovina, offers a well-marked trail leading to breathtaking cascades and refreshing cold-water pools—perfect for a dip.
3. Soak in the Hot Springs
Just a 10-minute drive from Lovina, Air Panas Banjar is a hidden gem featuring three natural hot spring pools set in a lush jungle landscape. Still relatively undeveloped, this tranquil spot is ideal for soothing sore muscles after a hike or simply unwinding in nature. The pools maintain a comfortably warm temperature in the high 30s°C (around 100°F).
4. Visit a Buddhist Monastery
While Bali is famous for its Hindu temples, Brahmavihara-Arama, a serene Buddhist monastery near Lovina, is well worth a visit. A peaceful retreat away from the crowds, the monastery is rarely busy, allowing visitors to take their time and fully immerse themselves in its tranquil atmosphere.
5. Discover Local Craftsmen
For those interested in traditional craftsmanship, Lovina offers a chance to meet talented local artisans.
- Ketut Baruna is a master silversmith who has been crafting jewellery using traditional techniques for decades. His family-run shop (Kusuma Silver) sells a beautiful selection of silver jewellery at surprisingly affordable prices. If you’re looking for something unique, he can create custom pieces—or you can take a masterclass and craft your own.
- Made Ariana, a gifted painter, only begins his abstract oil paintings under the light of a full moon. His pieces can be viewed at Gallery Art of Live in central Lovina, or you can visit his home studio, where art classes are also available.
Love this guide to Lovina? Check out another gem in North Bali, Pemuteran!