Guest writer, Yip Minting, shares the highlights of her amazing Swiss vacation – best restaurants, elegant hotels, awe-inspiring churches, scenic nature trails and more
The Wonderful Swiss Pass Tourists Don’t Take
Train journeys in Switzerland are always a scenic experience, but a ride on the Bernina Express leaves an awe-inspiring memory. One of the highest railways in Switzerland, the train crosses the canton of Graubünden and climbs to a height of 2253 metres at the highest point, snaking past glittering glacier lakes, then makes a descent while running through spectacular curves into the Poschiavo valley, before traversing into Tirano in Italy. Here are the beautiful towns along the way.
Davos Platz
Davos may be synonymous with the World Economic Forum, but the highest town in Switzerland perched at 1,560 metres above sea level offers much as a holiday destination. For over a century, the bracing mountain air has drawn patients suffering from illnesses such as asthma and tuberculosis to sanatoriums in the Alpine town, which has been immortalised by author Thomas Mann in his prolific novel, The Magic Mountain. The sanatoriums have since been converted into elegant hotels with breathtaking views, and visitors come here for skiing in the nearby mountains and hiking and biking along the picturesque terrains.
Take a ride on the Parsennbahn, the rail that travels from the town centre up to Weissfluhjoch summit at 2,693 metres above sea level. Transfer to the gondola lift that continues the ascent to the Weissfluhgipfel summit at 2,844 metres for a sweeping view over the Graubünden mountains. In summer, snowy pistes morph into meadows speckled with wildflowers, while some parts of the landscape become tundra, scree slopes and bare rock.
Head to Adventure Park Färich (davos.ch), a high wire and bike park, for a few hours of family fun and bonding. Some of the rope courses are more challenging than they look, but still less arduous than climbing the Alps. Blaze your way through various obstacles in the bike park – it’s good practice before you navigate the rugged terrains on the mountain trails. Afterwards, stop by at Restaurant Chalet Velo next to the park for scrumptious grilled meats and fries.
The Davos Sports Centre (davos.ch) is the training ground for top athletes and national sports teams, including the HC Davos team. Every year since 1923, the Spengler Cup hockey championship has taken place at Vaillant Arena, the indoor ice rink. You might catch a regular game if you are lucky, or in winter, head outside to skate on the largest natural ice rink in Europe, with great views of the mountains.
Take the bus (or romantic horse-drawn carriage) through the tranquil Sertig valley, beautifully walled by mountains and overlaid with fields. Wind down for dinner at Walserhuus Sertig hotel and restaurant (walserhuus.ch) that serves Graubünden specialties like capuns – dumplings made from flour and egg dough with dried meat and herbs, wrapped in Swiss chard and served with cheese sauce.
Once you’ve had your fill, jump on a train en route to Klosters Platz, a short 25-minute ride away. Walk around Klosters, which has the setting of a classic Swiss village abound with vaulted wood-roof buildings with white or wooden facades – a rusticity absent in Davos. Then, take a bus to Klosters Monbiel and hike to Alp Garfiun – trails lead through pine forests, slopes covered in emerald-green grass, glacial streams and the gorgeous view of mountains.
Alp Grüm
The train climbs up the Bernina Pass out of the forests, pulling into a rugged high Alpine landscape as the Lago Bianco (White Lake) comes into sight. Just past Ospizio Bernina station, that marks the highest point of the route at 2253 metres, is Alp Grüm. The view from here is mind-blowing: the Palü Glacier, Bernina Range, Bergamasque Alps and all of Valposchiavo. Savour the sight over lunch at Hotel Restaurant Alp Grüm (daprimo.com), where anise rye bread and traditional pizzoccheri – buckwheat pasta with cheese, potatoes and vegetables – are served.
From Alp Grüm, hike down to Cavaglia on the valley floor through forested slopes, crossing railway tracks occasionally. Wander through the Cavaglia glacier garden to discover glacial mills – rock formations of hollows carved out by glacial waters.
Poschiavo
This charming town has a relaxed, provincial pace, in a dreamy setting of pastel-hued townhouses, cobbled streets, narrow alleyways and beautiful squares – endearing to those who crave something authentic. Sit at a sidewalk table at Plazza da Cumün, and sip prosecco to take in Poschiavo’s pulse. The square in the heart of it is buzzing, well-stocked with cafes and restaurants with a lively stream of pedestrians. When night falls, a jazz band plays in the next street, a lulling prelude to a peaceful night’s sleep.
Stay at the Hotel Albrici, the first hotel in Poschiavo, which was built in 1682 and used to be a mayor’s mansion. Visit the stunning dining rooms, furnished with famed oil paintings of mythological Sibyls, beautiful antique furniture, wood panelled walls and high vaulted ceilings. The restaurant serves local specialties like pizzoccheri and capunet with mortadella and misolta – mini spinach dumplings coated in cheese sauce served with misolta (salami) and mortadella (italian sausage).
Le Prese
For a pick-me-up, take a refreshing swim in Lake Poschiavo in summer. Or visit the aromatic herb fields that grow everything from edelweiss to thyme, including those that make the iconic Swiss sweets, Ricola. The fresh mountain air has made herb-farming a blossoming industry in the country.
Tirano
The train crosses the Italian border and arrives at Tirano, a town with centuries of history and home to medieval walls, aristocratic mansions and baroque churches. Make your way to Palazzo Salis (palazzosalis.com), the elegant residence of the Salis family that has been partly converted into a museum with frescoed ceilings and an Italianate garden, a lovingly-restored 16th and 17th century monument.
Summer ride on the Stelvio line
Between July and October, you can hop on a bus (en.graubuenden.ch/postbus-travel-switzerland/stelvio-linie.html) that will take you from Tirano to Müstair on the Stelvio route for a thrilling ride. The bus clambers up high alpine passes, navigating sinuous hairpin turns and ploughs across the open country of gentle greens, greys and blues of the mountains. Catch your breath when you reach the highest point of the ride at a 2757-metre altitude; the bus makes a brief stop here, and you can admire the dramatic coils of the road. This spot served as the Italian front during World War I, so historic remnants of facilities can still be found here. On its way to Müstair, the bus crosses back into Switzerland.
Get a closer look at the landscape on a hike over the Ofen Pass to the Müstair Valley and the neighbouring Swiss National Park. This region sprawls above the treeline, where the green, rock-strewn landscape gives way to views of Italy and Austria. Visit the Benedictine monastery of St. John, a UNESCO Heritage Site in the village of Müstair on the Italian border. This monastery church dates back to the eighth century Carolingian era and houses Romanesque frescoes, baroque statues and Carolingian works.
