Wayan Sutariawan

Tell us your story – how did you get here?

I was born and raised in Klungkung, Bali’s smallest regency, renowned for its classic Balinese paintings. My journey into the world of authentic food began at the age of 12 when I was adopted by my aunt. Each day, I woke up early to grind chilli, onions, garlic, and other spices using a mortar and pestle to create base ganep, what I like to call the “magic spice paste of Balinese cuisine”. It forms the essential foundation for virtually every local dish.

Although the grinding was hard work, I found myself enchanted by the aromas, flavours, and traditions of Balinese cooking. This experience led me to change my career aspirations from becoming a policeman to pursuing a path as a chef. After completing my tertiary education, I joined Four Seasons Resorts Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru, where I spent five years at the private island resort, mastering international cuisines to complement my traditional Balinese expertise.

In 2011, I returned to Bali to join Four Seasons Sayan. Over the years, I worked my way up to Senior Sous Chef, overseeing two restaurants: Ayung Terrace and Riverside. Beyond curating menus and managing the culinary team, I remain hands-on in the kitchen, serving as the guardian of authentic Balinese cuisine at the resort. In 2021, I was promoted to Head Chef, overseeing Ayung Terrace, Riverside, Sokasi cooking school, Jati Bar, In-Room Dining, and culinary experiences such as the Megibung dinner on the River Terrace and Chef-Guided Picnic in the surrounding wilderness.

What accomplishment are you most proud of?

I played an instrumental role in the 2018 launch of Sokasi Riverside Cooking School, where I share my passion and secrets of local cuisine in half-day classes. Additionally, I personally present the Sokasi Chef’s Table, a seven-course dinner experience featuring dishes like the 12-hour roast duck cooked in an underground clay oven, a four-hour spit-roasted pig, and ancient recipes that are now increasingly hard to find, such as pepes klengis.

During the pandemic, I released a cook book, Cherished Recipes From My Childhood – a collection of more than 30 recipes including my Balinese favourites, street food from Sumatra, Java and Sulawesi, and a “rare but not forgotten” selection. I also share personal anecdotes, touching stories from my childhood, and cultural insights to enrich the flavours that pop out of every page.

What impact have you made in Bali?

We work with small family-based suppliers to source ingredients like palm trunk, young bamboo and klengis. Pepes klengis, originally from Klungkung, is a delicious dish where fish is marinated in klengis (the coconut pulp leftover from the process of making coconut oil), wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled over a coconut husk BBQ. Needless to say, klengis is not available from commercial suppliers. We source our coconut oil from a local family micro-business who follows traditional methods by hand and this provides us with a reliable supply of klengis as well. Furthermore, we have our very own underground clay oven for preparing bebek betutu and a spit roast used for babi guling. These are operated by Balinese men dressed in ceremonial attire, adding to the authenticity of our culinary experiences.

What does the future look like for you?

My mission is to preserve “forgotten” Balinese recipes through my cookbook. Many of these delightful dishes are available for guests to savour at Ayung Terrace and during Chef’s Table dinner at the Sokasi Cooking School. Additionally, my mission extends beyond Bali’s borders; I work to revive lost tribal recipes from across Indonesia. An example of this is Bia Paniki, traditionally made with wild bushmeats by the Minahasa tribe in North Sulawesi. I stay true to the original flavours of chilli, ginger, and lemon basil while elevating the recipe with premium Angus beef striploin.

What do you love most about Bali?

Obviously, the people, the culture, and the food.

What's the best meal you've ever eaten, and why?

Ayam Timbungan (chicken cooked in young bamboo) that was made by my auntie. It’s not as famous as Babi Guling, Sate Lilit or Bebek Betutu, but it’s just as delicious and keenly anticipated. The beautiful smokey flavour comes from the roasting method – place the chicken inside young bamboo to keep it moist, and cook it over open flames fuelled by coconut husks.

Who is your Local Legend and why?

My aunt is my legend. She’s the angel who transformed my life in countless ways, providing me with education and imparting knowledge about Indonesian cuisine.