{"id":85566,"date":"2016-03-02T07:00:11","date_gmt":"2016-03-01T23:00:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thehoneycombers.com\/singapore\/?p=85566"},"modified":"2024-11-22T09:59:35","modified_gmt":"2024-11-22T01:59:35","slug":"restaurant-review-chef-sam-aisbetts-whitegrass-at-chijmes-on-victoria-street-singapore","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thehoneycombers.com\/singapore\/restaurant-review-chef-sam-aisbetts-whitegrass-at-chijmes-on-victoria-street-singapore\/","title":{"rendered":"Restaurant review: Chef Sam Aisbett’s Whitegrass at CHIJMES on Victoria Street, Singapore"},"content":{"rendered":"

There has been a lot of buzz surrounding Whitegrass<\/a>, a modern Australian fine dining restaurant<\/a> at CHIJMES in Singapore<\/a>. After all, it\u2019s Sam Aisbett\u2019s own place, and he has an quite the resum\u00e9 \u2013 with well-regarded stints at some of Down Under\u2019s most influential restaurants<\/a>, including Quay and Tetsuya\u2019s in Sydney<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Why not open in Sydney? Whitegrass\u2019 public relations representative tells me during a dinner tasting, \u201cHe has always wanted to be in Asia”. And Singapore, to Aisbett, seems to be a great fit: \u201cMuch like Sydney, Singapore is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, making it an amazing place to be more experimental,\u201d says the chef-owner.<\/p>\n

By the time I got through the third dish, I was already thanking the culinary Gods for Whitegrass. It was an Alaskan king crab prepared in two ways: finely shredded and wrapped in a brik pastry, then presented in a fantastic crab-shaped contraption; the other sliced, roasted and arranged over steamed silken tofu, tapioca balls, junsai, and chilli consomm\u00e9. The latter\u00a0is a brilliant reinvention of chawanmushi, and, for me, it was an overture to Aisbett\u2019s mastery of textures and Japanese flavours.<\/p>\n

Next came the mangalica pork, which had been braised in salted chicken stock and slow-cooked to absolute submission. The sweet, melt-in-your-mouth meat is served with chewy abalone, soft fermented cabbage, smooth turnip puree, delicately crunchy fiddlehead ferns, spongy hasu imo (a vegetable), and seaweed and pork broth. It\u2019s like a sensational bowl of ramen deconstructed into a refined, all-kinds-of-wonderful dish, albeit without noodles.<\/p>\n

Aisbett\u2019s use of unexpected, and sometimes obscure, ingredients in his constantly changing menu also shows that he ranks high up in the school of experimental fusion. Besides flaunting the good stuff from native Australia, like fiddlehead fern and to-die-for wagyu imported from Limestone Coast, he also plays around with local produce like century egg, jackfruit and longan. The hundred-year egg makes its appearance with the perfect butter-poached quail (which also comes with toasted nuts, black-and-white garlic puree, endive heart and roasted milk skin); while our local fruits made its way to a refreshing dessert starring young coconut mousse, jackfruit ice cream, longan, almond and ginger cake. The grand finale? A decadent dessert called Black Gold, featuring 64% Valrhona chocolate with orange jellies, chocolate pearls, a white chocolate centre, and embellished with gold foil.<\/p>\n

At the end of our eight-course meal ($265++), I\u2019d go so far as to say that I have nothing but love for the amazing work of Sam Aisbett\u2026 but I feel somewhat let down by the space. Don\u2019t get me wrong: it\u2019s warm, elegant and befitting of the chef\u2019s impressive pedigree. The problem is, Whitegrass looks like Julien Royer\u2019s Odette. They have a similar colour palette of pink, gold, grey, purple and green (Whitegrass is more colourful), showcased local artists\u2019 work within their space (Aisbett had MessyMsxi design his wall), commissioned great artisans to craft unique tableware, and are located within historical landmarks. But surely, it must have been a real coincidence given that both restaurants\u00a0opened\u00a0mere months apart.<\/p>\n

Ultimately, I think, what really matters is the food on the table. Both Whitegrass and Odette serve spectacular plates \u2013 and at similar price points. So while you wait (up to) three months for a weekend seating at Royer\u2019s, there\u2019s no hold-up at Whitegrass, and it\u2019s a shame not to visit in the meantime. And multiple times, if you may.<\/p>\n

Whitegrass<\/a>, #01-26\/27 CHIJMES, 30 Victoria Street, Singapore 187996, p. 6837 0402. Open Tue-Sat 6-9.30pm (restaurant\u2019s last order); Mon-Sun 5pm-11.45pm (bar\u2019s last order).<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There has been a lot of buzz surrounding Whitegrass, a modern Australian fine dining restaurant at CHIJMES in Singapore. After all, it\u2019s Sam Aisbett\u2019s own place, and he has an quite the resum\u00e9 \u2013 with well-regarded stints at some of Down Under\u2019s most influential restaurants, including Quay and Tetsuya\u2019s in Sydney.\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":33,"featured_media":85575,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[4,9744],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRestaurant review: Chef Sam Aisbett's Whitegrass at CHIJMES on Victoria Street, Singapore<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The former head chef of Quay, one of Australia's top restaurants, has opened his own fine dining spot at CHIJMES in Singapore, and its modern Australian cuisine could possibly be one of the best things you'll eat this year\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thehoneycombers.com\/singapore\/restaurant-review-chef-sam-aisbetts-whitegrass-at-chijmes-on-victoria-street-singapore\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Restaurant review: Chef Sam Aisbett's Whitegrass at CHIJMES on Victoria Street, Singapore\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There has been a lot of buzz surrounding Whitegrass, a modern Australian fine dining restaurant at CHIJMES in Singapore. 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