Weekend Guide to Surabaya
Love big city getaways but need a change from Jakarta? Then Surabaya is the place for you! In addition to being a dynamic metropolis, Surabaya is also famous for its Independence War memorials, history of ancient kingdoms, and hot dishes to match the city’s temperature.
Eat: Exotic beef, spicy vegetarian, frog
Rawon is perhaps the first dish that comes to most people’s minds at the mention of Surabaya. This black beef soup gets its colour from fermented keluak (Pangium edule) which gives its distinctive robust flavour. Rawon itself is not spicy, but can be served with hot sambal, as well as young bean sprouts and salted duck egg.
Another must try is iga penyet, tender beef ribs in a special sambal of chili, garlic, lime, and basil. If you want more exotic beef, go for rujak cingur, a dish made from cow’s lips and vegetables in a nutty condiment of peanuts, chili, fermented shrimp, and tamarind.
Surabaya also has tasty vegetarian dishes such as tahu telor and pecel semanggi. Tahu telor is an omelette of tofu and vegetables served over lontong rice cakes in a tangy condiment of chili, fermented shrimp, and soy sauce. Pecel semanggi is a dish of boiled water clovers and bean sprouts in an aromatic sauce made from sweet potatoes, peanuts, galanga, onions, palm sugar, and fermented shrimp. Sambal on the side, of course.
Adventurous eaters should try swikée (frog). Typically served in special restaurants owned by the local ethnic Chinese, swikée is actually Hokkien slang for “water chicken”. Must-try delicacies include swikée oh (frog soup in fermented soy broth), swikée goreng mentega (butter fried frog), swikée asam manis (sweet and sour frog), and saté kodok (frog satay).
Our recommended restaurants:
Rawon Setan Mbak Endang, Jl. Embong Malang No. 78, Surabaya, p. +6231 7098 3811
Warung Leko Iga Penyet, Ruko Surya Inti B2, Jl. HR Muhammad, Surabaya, p. +6231 734 7975 or 7120 8800
Rujak Cingur Ahmad Jais, Jl. Ahmad Jais No. 40, Surabaya, p. +6231 532 8443
Tahu Telor Pak Jayen, Jl. Dharmahusada No. 112, Surabaya, p. +6231 7276 6914
Pecel Semanggi, Pujasera Kartika, Jl. Pangeran Diponegoro No. 56, Surabaya
Swikee Purwodadi Gris, Jl Pengampon No 91, Surabaya, p. +6231 355 6954
Do: Romanticise in time travel
Start your day with a visit before dawn to the Kalimas Harbour and take photos of the activities of traditional fishermen and tradesmen at daybreak, as well as stunning phinisi schooners.
From there, take a becak (pedicab) to get to the historical Jembatan Merah (red bridge), which serves as a gateway to Surabaya’s colorful Chinatown Kya Kya Kembang Jepun, or Kampung Kalimas Udik. Let your eyes feast on colonial architecture and visit the house of the late Indonesian hero KH Mas Mansyur.
If you have kids or have a soft spot for vintage technology, visit the Monkasel (Submarine Monument) by the riverbanks of Kalimas to tour a retired naval submarine that used to be feared by Indonesia’s neighbours. Meet real former sailors who used to serve aboard, brimming with stories of old missions.
While visiting the City of Heroes, be sure to visit Tugu Pahlawan, the iconic nail-shaped monument to commemorate the resistance of the arek-arek Suroboyo (sons and daughters of Surabaya) against the Allies in November 1945. The monument is surrounded by beautiful gardens where you can view Surabaya’s splendid skyline. Underneath these gardens, there is an underground museum where you can see dioramas, relics, photographs, and a documentary film on the 10 November war.
Another way to experience the timelessness of Surabaya is through the arts. Balai Pemuda Surabaya, is a Baroque style building dating from the early 1900s, where Dutch socialites used to hold dance balls and bowling tournaments during the colonial era. Having been the headquarters of the arek-arek Suroboyo independence movement and various political activities, Balai Pemuda Surabaya now serves as a lively venue for traditional and contemporary art events such as music concerts, theatre plays, wayang performances, and exhibitions.
Or take a trip to Batu city where you can visit the famous Cangar hot springs. There are kids’ pools so your tiny travellers don’t have to be left out. More family fun includes the opportunity to pick apples and milk cows!
Stay: 5 stars or on a budget
Lavish travellers will appreciate the Sheraton Surabaya Hotel & Towers, a five-star downtown hotel within walking distance from Tunjungan Plaza, eateries. Alternatively, consider staying at the modernly stylish four-star TS Suites, which gives you direct access to the Surabaya Town Square Mall.
If you’re bringing kids and looking for better value for money, you might like the Family Guest House Surabaya near Monkasel and the World Trade Centre. Other hotels with similar price ranges include Hotel 88 Surabaya and Maumu Hotel & Lounge.
Surabaya also has a range of low budget accommodation. Hotel Asia is one of Surabaya’s lesser known hostels, but is clean, spacious, near Tugu Pahlawan and other historical sites, and has room rates starting at Rp 65k (Jl. Tembaan No. 55, Surabaya, p. +6231 545 1365 or 545 1368).
Tips
Though it will be tempting to just indulge in an air-conditioned mall, make sure you enjoy walking outdoors in Surabaya. The gardens within Tugu Pahlawan, the Kalimas riverbanks and harbour, and the temples of Trowulan all make pleasant strolls, particularly in mornings and afternoons when the sun isn’t very strong.
Other places of interest include:
Monumen Kapal Selam, Jl. Pemuda No. 39, Surabaya, p. +6231 549 0410
Museum Majapahit, Jl. Pendopo Agung (opposite Kolam Segaran), Trowulan, Mojokerto, p. +62321 495515
Candi Bajang Ratu, Dukuh Kraton, Desa Temon, Trowulan, Mojokerto
Candi Brahu, Dukuh Jambu Mente, Desa Bejijong, Trowulan, Mojokerto
Candi Menak Jinggo, Dukuh Unggah-Unggahan, Desa Trowulan, Trowulan, Mojokerto
Candi Tikus, Dukuh Dinuk, Desa Temon, Trowulan, Mojokerto
Thanks to our friends at AirAsia, we took the 1110am flight to Surabaya. Why limit yourself to just Surabaya? Explore more destinations with AirAsia’s handy downloadable guide to Indonesia. It’s free!
This travel guide was brought to you by AirAsia.