In this edition of Chef Chats, we interview the chef behind Salted and Hung at Purvis Street, that serves unique food like tongue, hearts, tripe, sweetbreads, and even kangaroo meat
Tiny island, juggernaut in the food scene – the sterling reputation of Singapore amongst foodies is a prominent one. Indeed, you can sink your teeth into everything from hawker food to fine dining fare, and if your appetite’s feeling ambitious, some peculiar eats that would make even the hardiest of diners squirm. Food hunters who fall into that last camp might’ve already heard of Salted and Hung, Unlisted Collection’s (Bincho, Cheek by Jowl, Burnt Ends) new Australian restaurant led by Executive Chef Drew Nocente. How are we certain? Let’s just say it’s more than a gut feeling.
Forget about your conventional cuts of meat, and vegetarians, you might wanna sit this one out; at Salted and Hung, menu mainstays include pig head terrine, kangaroo loin, beef tongue, chicken hearts, tripe, and sweetbreads. But how have Singaporeans reacted to this offal-y vast menu so far? How complicated are the processes used in turning these otherwise off-putting (not to us!) parts into delicacies? And who exactly is the chieftain behind this daring concept? We pick the brain of Chef Drew himself in this edition of Chef Chats, and dig out the meaty deets behind one of the most thrilling restaurants in the scene today.
Hello Drew! How do you feel Singaporean diners have responded to the offal-y unique menu so far?
The response has been great. Singaporeans love this concept and our interesting dishes.
What’s your personal favourite part of an animal to eat?
That will be the beef tongue. It has a great texture and flavour.
What about one thing that you’ll never dare to try?
There’s nothing that I will not try. I believe that, as a chef, you need to try everything; it helps with exploring and the creation of new dishes.
If there was one thing in the world that’d make you turn vegetarian, what would it be?
Nothing would make me turn vegetarian. Meat is just too tasty.
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How was it like growing up on a farm, and how has it shaped you into the chef you are today?
Growing up on a farm builds character. Running a farm is tough, but it has many rewards like using fresh produce, and it also teaches you how to respect ingredients. That’s also why we have a minimal wastage policy at Salted and Hung.
We read that you were mentored by Chef Jason Atherton, protégé of Gordon Ramsay. What did you grasp from that experience?
Working under Jason was great; he has so much to teach. The main skill he taught me was attention to detail, not just with food, but also with everything in the restaurant.
We love how your dishes are categorised simply by how they’re prepared – for instance, “Fermented, Fried & Braised” – instead of resorting to gimmicky names. What was the rationale behind this?
I wanted to present the menu in a simple and straightforward manner, so it’d be easy for my guests to understand.
How complex are the processes that take place in the kitchen?
There are a lot of different processes in the kitchen; some take hours and some take days, while the charcuterie takes weeks and up to months to prepare.
Conceptually, how would you describe the restaurant?
The restaurant is a reflection of my personality. It’s serious and fun, yet light-hearted at the same time.
There’s a quote from George Orwell’s Animal Farm – “All animals are equal, but some are more equal than others” – on the restaurant walls. Do you happen to be a fan of literature yourself?
No, I’m not a fan of literature. But when I came across this quote, I really liked it. I thought it was cool and relevant so I decided to use it.
And finally, what would you recommend the most adventurous diner to try at Salted and Hung?
Tripe, kangaroo tartar, chicken hearts, and head cheese.
Salted and Hung, 12 Purvis Street, Singapore 188591, p. 6358 3130. Open Mon-Fri 12pm-2.30pm and 6pm-10.30pm, Sat 6pm-10.30pm, closed Sun.